Autumn is in the air, no? The days of full moon. Leaves are gradually becoming yellow. Watching Nouvelle Vague films in the evenings. Forgetting about shorts and t-shirts. This Lemaire autumn-winter 2018 coat and layered shirting make me drool.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
In a way, that’s just a preview of Lemaire‘s spring-summer 2019 collection. The label has decided to show both, menswear and womenswear, in one integrated show during the usual Paris fashion week schedule this autumn. But, what to expect (and already love!) from Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran? Delightful pajamas made in collaboration with Sunspel. Footwear produced together with sustainable French brand called Veja. The real-life look-book also shared a glimpse at raincoats, gorgeous knits and some very charming samples from the woman’s wardrobe. “We shot the pictures on the street in Pantin, just outside Paris,” said Christophe, “and a lot of passersby had something to say. Many people liked the shoes. And this one woman was really excited by the volume and the pleated pants; she said, ‘Ah, it takes me back to the ’80s!’” Fashion is fashion, but it’s the people who decide what’s in. Lemaire, without much fuss, is always in.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Something’s going on at Lemaire. It seems that the designer marriage, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran, let some colour to their beautifully minimal, yet intimate, label. Curcuma, lemon, mustard, lilac – this is the bright, warm palette offered for autumn-winter 2018. But Lemaire wouldn’t be Lemaire without its cool sobriety. Dark brown jackets were styled with ecru skirts or black satin shirts. Loosely fitted, multi-segmented coats in dove grey or indigo made you think of a cold breeze rather than those lovely, autumn days. The volumes were as well different than usual – everything’s over-sized, very masculine. People say that Lemaire can become the new Céline. I disagree – I think that Lemaire is authentic, not trying to look like Phoebe Philo’s era fashion. It’s just the way it is, true to the designers’ style.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran, season after season, find a way to make their truly timeless clothes feel exciting. Maybe this season it’s all thanks to the pink turtleneck the models wore under russet-brown cardigans and coats? That was a glimpse of colour that doesn’t affiliate with Lemaire, but surprisingly looked great. The brand is known for its sense (and love) for artistry. A designers’ friend contributed the muted paisley and feather-overlay marble prints used in outerwear, shirting, mohair knits and pants. Of course, for more classical Lemaire devotees, there are the signature, relaxed fits and silhouettes in ecru, black or grey (can I ask for that loosely fitted suit, please?). As always, Lemaire wins my heart.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Although poets and writers rarely resort to high fashion, Lemaire‘ spring-summer 2018 is the way I imagine a creative soul to dress on the daily. Equally melancholic as their imaginary (or not) muse, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran went against the flow and showed a rather elegant, toned collection comparing to other designers this season. But that doesn’t make Lemaire’s offering less charming. Quite opposite – it’s sophisticated and wearable at the same time, oddly seductive and refined. Satin apron dresses, shirts in watercolour print, brown masculine blazers and interestingly fitted tuxedo looks in shades of khaki, navy and dark purple. It’s not for every person that feels comfortable in minimalism, though. You’ve got to be the ‘character’ to really enjoy those not-just-chic pieces. Lemaire’s prime interest is in the clothes, not the entire frame around it. Certainly, the creative duo behind the label pulled it off well, with no big, common for Paris, fuss.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Design & Culture by Ed 