Something’s going on at Lemaire. It seems that the designer marriage, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran, let some colour to their beautifully minimal, yet intimate, label. Curcuma, lemon, mustard, lilac – this is the bright, warm palette offered for autumn-winter 2018. But Lemaire wouldn’t be Lemaire without its cool sobriety. Dark brown jackets were styled with ecru skirts or black satin shirts. Loosely fitted, multi-segmented coats in dove grey or indigo made you think of a cold breeze rather than those lovely, autumn days. The volumes were as well different than usual – everything’s over-sized, very masculine. People say that Lemaire can become the new Céline. I disagree – I think that Lemaire is authentic, not trying to look like Phoebe Philo’s era fashion. It’s just the way it is, true to the designers’ style.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.