“We wanted a more brutal way of doing things,” confessed Dries Van Noten after his spring-summer 2017 show in Paris. “We just started to chop up garments and throw flower prints on. Everything contrasting!” Indeed, “contrast” is a fitting term for Dries’ multi-faceted outing of opulent gowns embroidered with layers of jewels and draped in silks. Intricately embellished high-necked blouses with Victorian sleeves were kept in eye-killing shades of yellow and blue, while fish-net elements peeked out from underneath her soft cashmere knits and glamorous evening-gowns. The woman portraited by Van Noten this season has nothing against street-wise: just look at the range of satin bomber jackets. Unlike Marchesa Casati, last seaon‘s muse, it’s not about one specific woman for spring. The designer shares only one tip – whoever she’s, she dresses according to her mood, from the most noir and dramatic looks, to most mesmerising colour combinations. The rest is left for you to intepret.
Matty Bovan can be described with one word: colour. Remember the graffiti-like doodles on Marc Jacobs’ spring-summer 2016 backpacks and coats? That’s Bovan’s (and his colleague, AV Robertson) work. If you type @babbym into your search bar on Instagram, prepare for an apogee of extremely layered make-up looks, glitter, paint and spontaneous sketches. Basically, Matty is on everybody’s lips in the industry for a pretty long time. So seeing his debut collection during Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East show was a perfect occasion to completely absorb, and get the point, of the designer’s cheerful, rainbow-coloured world.
With support from Love Magazine‘s Katie Grand, Matty sent a line of “really cool” models down the runway – there was Lily Sumner, Teddy Quinlivan, and even Lily McMenamy, all in Bovan’s energetically hand-printed trousers and hand-knitted, quite unclassified garments. Even Stuart Vevers, the creative director of Coach, let the art-school dreamer sugar-coat the brand’s classical leather bags for this event. In a range of fun-clothing, we can find fish-net sweaters and neon-green dresses, chaotically cut up and fringed. Matty’s inspirations for spring-summer 2017 included a line of artists and photographers, who never said “no” to colour, and a DIY kind of way of making things: Stephen Sprouse, Keith Haring and Maripol. Miranda Joyce, who collaborated with the Matty on make-up, took hints from Nina Hagen, the “Godmother of Punk”. London is about limitless creativity, right?
Scrolling down the feed and filtering Instagram can be sometimes a good thing – and surely, when you are about to discover new, fresh designers with their unique vision! My latest find is the remarkably talented footwear designer, Lane Marinho. Lane is based in Sao Paulo, which currently experiences a kind of fashion renaissance. After working for several, big shoe companies in Brazil, Marinho decided to start experimenting with natural materials (like sea-shells and local natural stones) in order to make her ideas and old dream come true. She created her own label, which focuses on hand-made shoes and the heritage of artisan craftsmanship. As you can see on the photographs of Henrique Gendre, who is Lane’s collaborator since the beginning of her fashion adventure, the brand’s signature pieces are meticulously embroidered sandals. All of them are cut, sewed and hand-painted by the designer herself, which marks that all of the exemplars are one-of-a-kind and produced in very small quantity. Currently, the Brazilian designer has three collections under her belt, and all of them look equally impressive – and the shoes presented in bold, still life aesthetic (styled by another collaborator of the brand, Renata Corrêa) add warmth to this gloomy, rainy day.
More on Lane Mainho’s site.
Thanks to this collection, Victoria Beckham positively updated her importance in the fashion syste,. Why? It was her best NYFW outing up to date. She showed, that her clothes can be commercial and edgy at the same time. Spring-summer 2016 was simple, but bold and optimistic. Childish patterns of circles (or rather “moons”) and squares appeared in forms of suede elements and bags. The tank-tops had fantastic cut-outs, while the suede harness-vests looked pretty interesting on white t-shirts. Also, the designer paid attention to prints, which weren’t her strong side lately – it got fairly breezy when surfer prints showed up on sweatshirts and culottes. It is clearly visible, that Victoria enters her much more playful side – she puts her cocktail dresses aside and lets more over-sized, wearable clothes come into her clients’ wardrobes.
Ruffles! Everywhere! On trousers, on shirts, on dresses – a ruffle mania. Rosie Assoulin presented a playful collection, which fused her all-time signatures with new ideas. The statement culottes had those huge daisy shaped cuts while her classy dresses smartly flipped into a fancy party or a friend’s brunch at the same time. Also, the Woodstock-like dyed over-sized trousers had a moment. But again, the ruffles were really the stars of this collection – the Curcuma coloured top with ruffled sleeves was everything. Just like the pink top which surrealistically reminded an ethereal waterfall made of ruffles. Although all of that might sound very “couture-ish”, mostly all of the clothes designed by Rosie are wearable and, definitely, ready-to-wear. Even though they might be really arty (but then, why they shouldn’t have a creative soul?).