Lucid. Sies Marjan AW18

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While for the last few seasons I didn’t really understand Sander Lak‘s phenomenon, his autumn-winter 2018 collection looks, well, really good to me. Since the start of his eponymous label, Sies Marjan, Lak indulged himself in pastels mostly. “Last season was light, a dreamy state. This is still a dream but an intense one. Not a nightmare, not a happy dream, not a wet dream.” Then, a lucid dream! This time around, it’s more about psychedelic ombré of iris purple, crimson red, deep blue and forest green. Colour has always been his soft spot, and the collection shows how good the designer is in mixing and crushing the most unlikely palettes. From gowns draped with taffeta and cute shearling jackets to slouchy suits and relaxed pajama shirts, it’s like a delightful, yet demanding, spectrum of must-haves. If Sander’s latest collection had its colour palette’s name, I would definitely call it the ‘sweet melancholia’.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Colour Party. Rosie Assoulin AW17

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Parachute top with ruffled sleeves, ball-skirt in pastel-green, purple total-look made of eye-catchy ‘marble’ fabric, lemon pantsuit, patchworked robe-dress, another blouse with voluminous ruffles, but in red. Yes, you’ve guessed it right – I’m speaking of Rosie Assoulin‘s dreamy wardrobe for autumn-winter 2017 collection. Being New York’s queen of contemporary eveningwear and ‘makes me smile’ everyday essentials, Assoulin invited her guests to a tea-party-kinda presentation, which not only let the editors observe the delightful gowns in motion – it was also an occasion to celebrate the designer’s footwear line. Assoulin was inspired with fancy interiors and those little, meticulously crafted details that make a room look high above the average. That’s why some of the shoe heels reassembled table legs! While other designers get melancholic this season, Rosie’s signature optimism stays for good. But who wouldn’t feel cheerful, wearing one of those floral slip-dresses next autumn?

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Excellent Palette. Rochas SS17

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There’s a distinct difference between Alessandro Dell’AcQua‘s Rochas, and his Milan-based No21. While his more youthful brand is about lady-grunge and exciting layering, Alessandro seems to be a mature man at the historic house in Paris. But first, lets praise Molly Goddard for reviving tulle and making it a “thing” in fashion industry. The trend spreads fast, and Dell’AcQua adores it. The first model emerged in a yellow frock, with pink tulle peeking from underneath, wearing knitted gloves in the same colour. Effect? Feminine, flirty and sweet. Colour combination fantasy didn’t end here: the creative director has a sharp eye for colours, and he’s a master of combining the most unobvious shades. In other words, the palette was excellent, from carrot-orange and lemon-yellow, to flesh-pink and forest-green. 

After being appointed to his new role in 2013, it’s pretty clear that the Italian designer feels like home at Rochas. It’s intriguing to see how the brand develops under his wings – it’s becoming a favourite of such anti-celebrities as Soko, French indie-rock musician. She appeared in the front row with her boys (all dressed in dresses, accidentally matching the main focus of the collection). Fortunately, Rochas won’t end in the box of brands with “nice” dresses – it’s already far, far away from that point with it’s new off-kilter nature.

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Moody. Dries Van Noten SS17

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We wanted a more brutal way of doing things,” confessed Dries Van Noten after his spring-summer 2017 show in Paris. “We just started to chop up garments and throw flower prints on. Everything contrasting!” Indeed, “contrast” is a fitting term for Dries’ multi-faceted outing of opulent gowns embroidered with layers of jewels and draped in silks. Intricately embellished high-necked blouses with Victorian sleeves were kept in eye-killing shades of yellow and blue, while fish-net elements peeked out from underneath her soft cashmere knits and glamorous evening-gowns. The woman portraited by Van Noten this season has nothing against street-wise: just look at the range of satin bomber jackets. Unlike Marchesa Casati, last seaon‘s muse, it’s not about one specific woman for spring. The designer shares only one tip – whoever she’s, she dresses according to her mood, from the most noir and dramatic looks, to most mesmerising colour combinations. The rest is left for you to intepret.

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