Men’s – Louis XVI Today. Comme Des Garcons SS16

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Rei Kawakubo and Julien d’Ys are a perfect creative couple. She is designing clothes full of intelligent innovation which is in perfect symbiosis with history of fashion. He is the “hair artist” who does mind-blowing head creations. Comme des Garcons for men’s SS16 is an explosive fusion of Louis XVI nostalgia and extravagant modernism. This season, d’Ys created towering neon yellow bouffants, a striking contrast to Kawakubo’s collection of revisited suits – which saw trousers slit down the legs, jackets with their collars removed or silhouette unexpectedly severed, and shirts that hung in tatters. For the hair  d’Ys was given free hand by Kawakubo to take the direction he wanted. “I have to have freedom,” he says, speaking after the show. “If somebody said to me ‘OK, I want that’, then I can’t do anything, I can’t! I’m completely frozen because I have to be very free and I have to love the person that I work with.”

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Laura

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When you walk into Laura, you have a feeling that you are inside of a spaceship. The sci-fi wall panels (which look like white orchidees) and a Star Trek lamp catches your attention from the very first moment. And then, you realize that the clothes are as extravagant as the interior…. Laura is the only place in Warsaw where you can find the latest Comme des Garcons and Rick Owens. Insane runway dresses, super cool leather jackets, plastic cowboy shoes and many, many more are here. This place should  definitely be on the list of Rei Kawakubo fans who enjoy avant-garde!

Mokotowska 21 / Warsaw

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Ceremony of Separation. Comme des Garçons AW15

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Rei Kawakubo’s collections are always full of interpratations. Last time, it was all about red and it’s meaning. Now, it’s about black and white – but in a very metaphoric way. White – life. Black – death. Kawakubo went further and brings human’s biggest problem and fear into one, “painful” collection. The garments, made of many tones of white and black lace, had little, childish dresses embroidered on – disturbing and eerie at first sight. The serene and ghostly models moved slowly down the runway, and as they passed each other, a sad look was exchanged. As we usually “close” ourselves when we feel grief, every model had a hardened lace veil covering the faces or they were obscured by a sculptural cocoon by the master of hair-sculptures, Julien d’ys.

The collection made the guests of the show forget thinking whether “this will sell” or not. Everybody looked at the whole “ceremony” through their hearts and feelings. Rei Kawakubo proves again, that she is more than a fashion designer. She’s a poet which makes the emotions rage.

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