Men’s – Country. Jacquemus AW19

Simon Porte Jacquemus‘ autumn-winter 2019 collection for men signalled his (temporary) departure from the always sunny, always beach-y wonderland that got him slightly trapped for the last few seasons. But, it’s Jacquemus – France will forever be his endless inspiration. This time, he went to the French countryside, and came back to Paris with a warm, ready-to-get-dirty offering. The designer presented his collection around a table full of cheese, grapes and bread, and posted a look-book photographed far, far from the big city – the hills of Montpellier. The collection’s leading inspiration? “Traditional French workwear,” he said, “bakery guys, farm workers. They are real, real clothes, cotton, wool.” We’ve got thick, durable collared outerwear and matching pants in brown; printed shirts that seemed to be inspired with Cezanne’s rural still-lives; leather pants that were a fashion version of an apron you wear to a barn; heavy trekking boots. But there was also the softer part of the collection, focusing on slightly over-sized fitted suits – something quite new to Jacquemus’ young menswear line. The designer’s love letter to the beautiful, French farm life could not miss foulards, tied loosely around the models’ necks. Now, anyone planning a detoxifying, rural escape anytime soon?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Detox. Acne Studios AW18

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They come back looking amazing, great skin, relaxed”, is how Jonny Johansson sees his friends and colleagues that have chosen to move away from urban environments to live in the countryside. Airy, light and cozy are the words to describe Acne Studios‘ latest collection – one of the best in a while. What the Scandinavian label has in offer for autumn-winter 2018? Well, everything is lovely, that’s first. Whether we’re speaking of the loosely fit, buttoned maxi-dresses in toned florals or plaid blanket coats, it’s a wardrobe that’s ready to please you in autumn, both in the city or in the forest (mushroom-picking!). Also, I can’t get enough of the colour palette, which reminds me of an idyll, late September rural landscape. You might ask yourself a question, why is the collection presented as early as Vetements or Proenza Schouler? Johansson’s decision for Acne Studios follows a certain ‘detox’ philosophy. Showing earlier, close in time to the menswear presentation, lets Johansson focus creatively on a specific concept and, to some extent, escape the regular Paris fashion week rush for limelight. And now, off to the country.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.