I know I wrote that before, but Instagram really is a treasure chest of creatives who deserve the spotlight. A casual morning scroll-down-of-my-feed later and here I’m with Quinten Mestdagh‘s powerful collection, which has been presented during the last fashion show of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. The designer is a third-year graduate of the school, which breeded the famous Antwerp Six, and already makes a unique mark on the Belgian fashion scene. Quinten’s voluminous garments electrify the viewer with their texture, colour and imagery. Speaking of the last, its the designer’s visible strenght in ‘Dodge This’ collection. “I have always been attracted by highly stylized images in fashion magazines and advertisements. Last summer, I started collecting pictures in the archive of the MoMu library in Antwerp. With those images, I made collages and paper 3D experiments to create tension and roughness, contrasting with the beauty found in fashion photography. I then approached the garments as abstract panels for the images,” Quinten told ASVOF. With faces of fashion models and icons like Nico, Karen Elson or Princess Elizabeth of Toro as prints, the designer emphasizes and embraces extreme femininity in form of modern-day ball gowns and statuesque skirts. Just wow.
Photos via Quinten’s Instagram / by Michaël Smits.
Matty Bovan can be described with one word: colour. Remember the graffiti-like doodles on Marc Jacobs’ spring-summer 2016 backpacks and coats? That’s Bovan’s (and his colleague, AV Robertson) work. If you type @babbym into your search bar on Instagram, prepare for an apogee of extremely layered make-up looks, glitter, paint and spontaneous sketches. Basically, Matty is on everybody’s lips in the industry for a pretty long time. So seeing his debut collection during Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East show was a perfect occasion to completely absorb, and get the point, of the designer’s cheerful, rainbow-coloured world.
With support from Love Magazine‘s Katie Grand, Matty sent a line of “really cool” models down the runway – there was Lily Sumner, Teddy Quinlivan, and even Lily McMenamy, all in Bovan’s energetically hand-printed trousers and hand-knitted, quite unclassified garments. Even Stuart Vevers, the creative director of Coach, let the art-school dreamer sugar-coat the brand’s classical leather bags for this event. In a range of fun-clothing, we can find fish-net sweaters and neon-green dresses, chaotically cut up and fringed. Matty’s inspirations for spring-summer 2017 included a line of artists and photographers, who never said “no” to colour, and a DIY kind of way of making things: Stephen Sprouse, Keith Haring and Maripol. Miranda Joyce, who collaborated with the Matty on make-up, took hints from Nina Hagen, the “Godmother of Punk”. London is about limitless creativity, right?
When Meadham Kirchhoff stopped doing street-casted shows and closed their brand, it was a very, very bad omen for the fashion industry, which, first things first, should be fuelled by creativity. Benjamin Kirchhoff and Edward Meadham were creating the boldest, the happiest and the heartiest label in London, or even in the entire world – but then, “debts have caught up” and this relatively small, studio-based label couldn’t survive the pressure of this sadly, too corporate world.
If that wasn’t bad enough – it appeared that the designers were forced out of their studio, and Meadham Kirchhoff’s archive was confiscated by the succeeding occupier. Remember the glamorous pieces from their gothic past, all those vinyl coats and naughty, glittered bodysuits? They aren’t owned by the designers since that moment. But, heads up – there’s a chance for Meadham Kirchhoff archive to be retrieved and be admired in its full grace. Curator Shonagh Marshall has worked with Edward and Benjamin, and selected around 50 pieces that will be donated to museums. As one of the designers said “we had an impact on culture and on British and international fashion, and we want these clothes to live beyond the context of a personal wardrobe; we always wanted Meadham Kirchhoff clothes to be seen, not something to just have and never wear.” The selection, was priced at £15,000 – this is a sum that can buy back 12 years of the duo’s work. If you mind / care / want to help – I strongly advise you to donate a pound or a hundred here. Let’s support British fashion history and Meadham Kirchhoff creative legacy, which indeed changed a lot!
Some of the photographs are by Drew Jarrett, shot for 1 Granary.
It’s Paris, and it feels like a breath of fresh air coming along Jacquemus‘ autumn-winter 2016. The city of French fashion is undergoing a wave of youthful talent – and Simon Porte Jacquemus represents that perfectly with his extraordinary, yet wearable garments. “I would like there to be less industry and more poetry” is what he declared backstage, minutes before the show. It was all about a surrealist illusion this season – the dresses floated in the air and spaghetti straps were magically elevated above the shoulders. The exaggerated shoulders, although distinctly reminded the old, good Martin Margiela, introduced us to other arty shapes and geometric cuts – sometimes, they looked even too grotesque, as in case of the “mini-skirt” worn with a pastel-blue turtleneck. But what was the most genuine from the entire collection was the expanded accessory line – block-heeled “rond carré” shoes, asymmetrical gloves in tangerine orange and cute, kidney-shaped bags are the highlights, which will sell well.
A very, very experimental, yet down-to-earth start of Paris Fashion Week!