Ethereal Punks. Ann Demeulemeester SS15

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Sebastien Meunier, whose the second season at Ann Demeulemeester feels like a vocabulary of the house’s heritage, was shown yesterday at Paris Fashion Week. The clothes were black & white, mesh and romantic fabrics were seen. The models had those punk-ish hair, but mostly it all felt silent and ethereal. In other words, it feels like if Ann was still present in the house, but with lack of progress. Beacaues that’s metaphorically true- Sebastien uses old house codes and hits, just to make it all more “commercial” and too Demeulemeester. The collection is not bad- but it feels like if the new creative director didn’t really try that hard as he should to make this Belgian brand be loved and respected. Hope the next season will be better…

Men’s: Darkness. Givenchy SS15

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“I always come back to the dark side. It’s what I’m most attracted to,” Tisci explained. This season – like many of his collections – he explored the duality between something quite aggressive and uniform and something much more romantic. Leather thigh-high lace up boots were worn with pearl embellished floral print garments, and all of his models emerged onto the runway with their hair pushed back inside black hairnets. His female models – including Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel and Irina Shayk – made their way around the industrial show space in sheer dresses (which revealed bondage-style underwear) and thick black cat eyes. The show was in good taste, it was elegant and glam, but at the same time very arrogant and non-chalant! In the middle of the show venue, we had a huge, deconstructed airplane made by Dutch artist Paul Veroude, which was a chic approach to luxury and the 30s, which very influenced the collection.

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Halloween Horror’s: CDG SS14

1051578 31st of November. The city is dark. The skycrapers are off. It’s so dark, but at the same time… mysterious. Down the road in Paris, you go- it’s kind of artistic and elusive. All these people around look disturbing. Their costumes seem to be strange and not usual. VERY unusual. They all wear Comme des Garcons for SS14, which is amazingly amzaing, and at the same time creepy. Definitely some thing cool for Halloween horror fashion moment…105156110515651051569105158210515641051560

Milan: DAAD

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DAAD in Milan is a conceptual store full of dark aesthetic clothes, Comme des Garcons perfumes and a la Rick Owens coats. Indeed, the clothes and less known labels in this store are styled very much on Rick Owens and Maison Martin Margiela from the past. Nothing here is like it seems- a coat can be a shirt and trousers a skirt! The interior reminds me a bit of -PN/P in Florence, that was also dark and very artistic! I love this place! And there was this one coat with fur that I am eternally in love from now on…

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Tuscany: -PN\P

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Piedi Nudi Nel Parco, in shorter version known as -PN\P, these two dark places in Florence are the coolest conceptual fashion stores in the city! First you need to know, that here you won’t find Givenchy and Dolce & Gabbana. For this you can go to shitty Luisa Via Roma, that is really poor. The -PN\P store is for individuals, that simply love dark, luxury clothes. Here you will find Alaia and labels that reassemble Rick Owens. In both boutiques, women’s and men’s, the interior is very artistic! In the first one you walk on a glass floor through which you see ancient catacombs, and on the second one it’s all about modern fabrics and metallic details… If you are into this style and going to visit Florence soon, this place is right for you!

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