Ethereal Punks. Ann Demeulemeester SS15

September 27, 2014January 5, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sebastien Meunier, whose the second season at Ann Demeulemeester feels like a vocabulary of the house’s heritage, was shown yesterday at Paris Fashion Week. The clothes were black & white, mesh and romantic fabrics were seen. The models had those punk-ish hair, but mostly it all felt silent and ethereal. In other words, it feels like if Ann was still present in the house, but with lack of progress. Beacaues that’s metaphorically true- Sebastien uses old house codes and hits, just to make it all more “commercial” and too Demeulemeester. The collection is not bad- but it feels like if the new creative director didn’t really try that hard as he should to make this Belgian brand be loved and respected. Hope the next season will be better…

Men’s: Darkness. Givenchy SS15

June 28, 2014June 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

“I always come back to the dark side. It’s what I’m most attracted to,” Tisci explained. This season – like many of his collections – he explored the duality between something quite aggressive and uniform and something much more romantic. Leather thigh-high lace up boots were worn with pearl embellished floral print garments, and all of his models emerged onto the runway with their hair pushed back inside black hairnets. His female models – including Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel and Irina Shayk – made their way around the industrial show space in sheer dresses (which revealed bondage-style underwear) and thick black cat eyes. The show was in good taste, it was elegant and glam, but at the same time very arrogant and non-chalant! In the middle of the show venue, we had a huge, deconstructed airplane made by Dutch artist Paul Veroude, which was a chic approach to luxury and the 30s, which very influenced the collection.

Halloween Horror’s: CDG SS14

October 31, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

31st of November. The city is dark. The skycrapers are off. It’s so dark, but at the same time… mysterious. Down the road in Paris, you go- it’s kind of artistic and elusive. All these people around look disturbing. Their costumes seem to be strange and not usual. VERY unusual. They all wear Comme des Garcons for SS14, which is amazingly amzaing, and at the same time creepy. Definitely some thing cool for Halloween horror fashion moment…

No Light. Gareth Pugh AW13

February 28, 2013August 7, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

If you have a winter depression as most of people and want to make it even more noticeble, Gareth Pugh 2014 AW is just the right for you. Everything is dramatic, sad, deep and couture. Even the setting that is connected to the title of this post- no light! The windows were totally covered with timber. This is a talent to make the interior perfect for clothes!Pugh showed his classics- leather gloves, capes in dark depressing colours, minimalistic plants on bottom of white maxi dresses…Everything is as for me a bit boring and totally not new. Like if Gareth didn’t make a progress but stopped in one place. But I have to admit that the outfit were the model wears a overloose white t-shirt on a black maxi dress looks stunning. So different from others. Everything has a kind of Asiatic inspiration if talking about structure. Wide sleeves, Kimono long jackets, Japanese prints with some “dead” sakura trees.And the at the end there was a couture vibe- black stiff feathers on beautiful dresses and magnificient head decorations. But unfortunately that was not the best Gareth Pugh collection. There were better and more risk taking. Maybe next time…