Men’s – Sober and Grounded. Dries Van Noten AW17

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Autumn-winter 2017 wasn’t just another brilliant men’s collection chez Dries Van Noten. 99 is quite a number – and presenting your 99th collection is a big deal. Other designers would do a big party after the show, while Dries, in his manner, took a moment for reflection. “I wanted it to be grounded.” Deciding on what’s essential for him in a men’s wardrobe, the Belgian designer took a spin on basics, keeping them slightly more sober than usual. Wool coats with boxy shoulders (sounds Balenciaga, but looks much more refined); a great line of denim pants (!); Dr. Martens-like boots. Van Noten doesn’t play 70s-that, 90s-that trends: actually, these were the clothes he used to wear in his early days, and continues to wear on daily basis up to now. You will wear one of those big Peruvian-wool knits forever, just like the grey cardigan or oldie-but-goodie logo sweatshirt. There’s this sense of timeless in Dries’ latest collection and t’s real. No place for cliché here.

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Love Cavalli

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I think it’s the first time I’m writing about Roberto Cavalli on my blog – ever! Not that I dislike Cavalli’s style – the thing is, the good old Roberto and his extremely Italian, slightly indie chic lost its right path somewhere in 2007, within the appearance of pre-collections and “hate” towards anything “kitsch” (talking of you, minimalism). Even though the designer was at helm of his studio till 2015, the collections didn’t differ much, while the brand wasn’t appealing to a younger clientele. In fact, Peter Dundas initially seemed to be a lost cause. Not only as Roberto’s personal decision, but after his, ironically, Cavalli-style-inspired collections for Emilio Pucci, which didn’t excite either.  After the second season (I’m on fence with the critic-slammed spring-summer 2016 fluo glamorama), however, Dundas catches attention, but not only because of his predictable bling-bling. To a surprise, autumn-winter 2016 collection, for both men and women, was a great nod towards Robeto Cavalli and his bright, golden years – flares, python leather, music band t-shirts and a lot of denim revive from the dust, gracefully. With Jane Birkin’s 70s attitude and a sharp walk, anyone can make these killer, waisted pants look hotter than… hell!

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Big Pants Tale

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Lena in her N21 flares

Although big pants / flares aren’t always pleasantly seen in the society, let’s be cool about them – if styled well, these pants can easily become an essential of your wardrobe. Noting that the floor-sweeping length is having its appearance everywhere, from Celine Resort 2016 look-book to Rosie Assoulin’s AW16 collection, flares (which not necessarily must be denim!) seem to be an old-school alternative of culottes, which unfortunately don’t suit everybody due to their very, very difficult silhouette. Worn with a lace, slip top or a DsQuared bomber with a badass, J-Lo fur hoodie, the big pants work with almost everything. And, what’s the most attracting about this unsung must-have, is that you can truly have fun with them. Make them look slouchy (Y/Project autumn-winter 2016), chic (N21 cappuccino shaded version) or on fleek (Balmain AW07) – and remember to free your inner Jane Birkin.

So, are the big pants having a 2016 tale?

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Fendi SS99

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Y/Project AW16

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Céline AW16

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Carla Bruni in her apartment

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Rosie Assoulin AW16

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Céline Resort 2016

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Balmain by Chistopher Decarnin SS07

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N21 SS16 on Lena

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Maison Margiela in the 90’s

This Girl. Maryam Nassir Zadeh AW16

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Maryam Nassir Zadeh is New York’s favourite among stylish, sophisticated and down-to-earth women. Her boutique, with aesthetically curated brands, and her eponymous, namesake label, are known for an affordable, yet profound approach towards fashion you want to wear everyday. For autumn-winter 2016, Maryam is expanding her line, by continuing the denim obsession – a cool, off-beat pencil skirt, as well as patched 501-style pairs of jeans are about to storm the streets. The Woody Allen women, surrounded with calm neutrals, meets a lifey acid green shade of the pussy-cat bow dress; there is also the strong fur game, from cute teddy-bear jacket to a more “investment” coat in a deep, blue colour. When those clothes are going to arrive to the Lower East Side store, a lot of them will sell quick – for now, we can just try to recreate these looks thanks to Zadeh’s masterful styling tips…

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Photography by Ana Kraš, aka @teget

Reflections on Taste. Miu Miu AW16

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Although we’ve had the newcomers (Jasmine Sanders, Julia Banas), hot faces of Anna Cleveland and Edie Campbell type, Insta-fames (Gigi and Kendall) and the top-models, so the one-and-only Adriana Lima and Lara Stone, the Miu Miu girls were as nutty as the old ladies you meet on the street, and with whom you wouldn’t truly fancy a date. However, there was something appealing about these girls, wearing layered denim and furniture-tapestry maxi-skirts. As if Miuccia Prada wanted to show the risky, yet very feminine way of dressing, which is based on mixing contrasting, old and slightly cheesy clothes… but out of necessity, and not because of a current trend. Corduroy bombers and denim jackets with lace collars had something of a college girl memoirs – all of the jackets were embroidered with models’ boyfriend name tags. A nod to teenage romance, or a real-life tendency of sharing your wardrobe in a relationship?

But the youthful spirit of Prada’s sister line becomes much more mature, and less likely to feel appealing to a younger clientele. The lilac dress, worn by Lara, had the Cafe Marchesi florals everywhere, while the old-fashioned Jacquard coats and velvet belts smelled with Parisian thrift shops. These clothes are nostalgic and frivolous, and the entire collection questions good-taste. Although it was mostly slammed by the critics, I liked it.

Miu Miu always makes me feel relaxed by the end of the fashion month. With exhaustion in my fingers and a reflective mood on fashion, I am quite happy to announce that it’s the end of the autumn-winter 2016 couverage – uff!

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