Malboro Girl. Altuzarra SS14


Slide1-kopia 2Altuzarra woman is a strong business-cowgirl from the famous Malboro cigarettes advertisements. Yes, but didn’t it bored Joseph Altuzarra who repeats the same scheme from last Summer? Last year was like totally the same- cuts in skirts, tribal accents, shiny fabrics and this rodeo feeling. And after his amazing Winter collection I expected something much more sophisticated, interesting. But unfortunately, Altuzarra wanted to be more classic in his way. But is that alright for this young New York based designer? From Indian colonist costumes we move to super futuristic furs and then we comeback to the same prints with other ideology? I am very dissapointed with that collection. Sorry Altuzarra.

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Hand Painted Majesty

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Holly Fowler is a name to watch in London fashion scene- this girl has something really fresh and at the same time traditional to offer! To be clear. Holly is not doing prints, trench coats, Tartan plaids nor feather and high tech innovations. It’s all about… Hand-painted dresses! Sounds kind of stereotypical, but it looks so refreshing and new! The painted frescos on long minimalistic dresses, leather jackets and skirts look fantastic with their strong colours! Fowler also did to big collaborations- one with bags and dresses for Browns London, where a simple leather bag had a realistic print, and second one for Bergdof Goodman in New York! Really, the effect is mesmerising. This is real fashion- it really feels new, but it is still something wearable and at the same time at level of haute couture… In pretty affordable prizes! 20130824-073054 PM.jpg20130824-073105 PM.jpg20130824-073118 PM.jpg20130824-073154 PM.jpg

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Stomping Feet

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This season is definetly theirs. Nothing will stop them this Winter, even Tom Ford’s fairy-tale thigh high boots with hand made embroideries. Well, Tom Ford would throw up if he would heard that the famous club footed giant clobs with rubber soles would be gesting his runway. But still the inner beauty soul of mine still loves Tom’s creation… but this is not the thing. Fashion giants like Prada, Stella McCartney and Jil Sander together with a plague of young british designers are just crazy about them. Masculine inspired shoes, so called boots nowadays have lots of not too kind nicknames- mammonthly elevatedm tractor tread shoes. But why do women love them. Easy answear- they are simply ugly. Sounds strange, but yes dear female readers, there is now a new fashion era of ugliness- from wearing furkenstocks on feet to mixing prints and colours, that in the past would not even make it in the cheapest pubs. But now they are the ones that are most photographed on street styles and in magazine editorials! Boots are now the most WANTED on women’s wishlist. The next point of their amazingness is their comfortable state (no heels, wedges, mid heels, killer heels, strange ropes etc.) and practically! Now you shall were it everywhere! Even on a MET Gala during the Punk trend. Yes. Punk. Punk also made boots for women more popular. Punk was a controversy. Punks wore boots everywhere. “Normal” people in times of Punk massive attack were saying that it’s so disgusting… And now it’s the most worn shoe for almost ten seasons.

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But this season is the most  Punk’d as you can see, filtering magazines and Instagram. So no wonder why boots are killing the high heels that are just so last season! While I pretty like this shoe trend, it feels kind of rebellious and free spirited. In these shoes you will conquer your shoes. As Stella McCartney says “We’re allowed to have inner strenght and it takes that to wear those shoes”. Her collection was like a gender mix- a man shirt that was very long, making it a dress, feels a bit Marc Jacobs, but on women looks great. Laces mixed with smokings looked very modern and surely gives a inner power to every wearing it fashionista. But, these strange shoes might be very romantic, as says Miuccia Prada. True. They looked very sexy accompanied with the dresses and wet hair of models… But what makes a bit suprised, that mostly woman used this “forbidden” trend. Well, except Hedi Slimane and Karl Lagerfeld. But that’s a totally other story to tell. I mean, they are also boots, but boots designed by men this season are beautiful- full of decorations, chains. As I said on the beginning, giving example of Tom Ford, men don’t really like seeing women in these chuncky shoes. It’s better when it is high, hurty and sexy!

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London designers are just in love with them. Erdem, Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson. All of them had boots in their collections. BUT. At Kane, the Chelsea boots were covered with feathers (not so ugly then), at Erdem with crystals (might say even beautiful, and J.W. Anderson’s were so ugly, they were simply beautiful. Yes this is a strange world of Anderson. But why mostly London designers used this type of footwear? Cheaper to make? More commercial? Or just a case of inpiration? In fact, you can wear boots everytime and everwhere. They will make it great with a slim dress or with a mohair striped SL sweater and leather leggins. Or even with a Louis Vuitton boudoir inspired lace dress (that would be a cool hard core on street style in Paris!). In other words, the Wrong Shoes as many people call, are the new IT shoes of the season, and maybe of the decade.

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Xiao Li of The Marshmallows!

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Xiao Li, a Chinese designer of RCA FASHION London is one of the most exciting designer of the year! Her amazing, over large costumes in a marshmalow colour palet are very precised and made in with high technology. Plump pastel silicone garments moulded from knitwear feature in this collection by Royal College of Art graduate Xiao Li. And this knitwear doesn’t look like a simple now, made by a grandma. It’s, I would say, looking like if it was blew up or something.
“Traditional knitwear is more soft and shapeless,” Li told Dezeen. “I wanted to find out a new way to present knitwear and was influenced by Modern architecture and 60s Balenciaga.”
It all sounds pretty sophisticated, but these mind blowing fabrics are very wearable and easy. “I wanted to make sure my collection is innovative but still wearable,” she said. And my fav look is the one with the pink dress with organza bottom- looks stunning. And the boots… Plastic rules!

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Bionic, Take It Supersonic!

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Thomas Tait. This is the super human of London Fashion. The title of this post, is taken of one of the best song by Christina Aguilera, BIONIC. When I see the collection by Tait for AW13, I only hear in my head this song. It matches everything. The collection feels like if UFO came to our planet and super agents, so the models, plan the defense attack. Green clouds around, grafitti around. I think the show was presented in a garage, cause under every sit of the guests there was a car number… But coming back to the designer- The old movie Runaway about Sci Fi inspiration is clearly visible here! The clothes, well they are really cyber-superb! Kept in extra neon colours like orange, green and red, the pieces (look at these SUNGLASSES!) are really visible in the crowd. The use of fabrics is always pretty much cosmic- latex, polar mixed with leather and plastic! I love it! his is so “other”  and fresh.

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The THOMAS TAIT sign is visible everywhere with the .COM ending. Is this a metaphor for the future fashion that Thomas sees? Will be so full of HiFi, pixels and this computer staff? If yes then I don’t have anything oppose about it. One more time about sunglasses- it’s difficult to see something as REFRESHING as this! Last time I so something like this, were the Celine furry sandals. Totally different. The curvy geometric frames look so out of this worls, that I think they would bestseller on Jupiter! And maybe in London?

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