Fairies in the lavender fields… or maybe it’s Sasha Pivovarova and Lara Stone in Prada‘s spring-summer 2008 looks, covered in the memorable, fairy-tale prints by James Jean?
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
After seasons of contemplating on humanity, Rick Owens looks at the brighter side of things for spring-summer 2017. Nina Simone on the show’s soundtrack (the show-note claimed that the designer listens to her everyday in his studio); joyous colour palette dripped in yellow; models wearing voluminous, extravagant silhouettes. Draping is a keyword for Owens’ latest creations, and this season isn’t an exception. Drifty dresses with fantastically sculpted, furry hems at the front stole the spotlight, just like the ethereal closing looks. For the last few pieces, Owens collaborated with Maison Lemarié, a Parisian atelier specialising in work with feathers and plume. The effect? Three, impressively fluid-like capes covered in ostrich feathers. In the dark world of Owens, it’s rare to say something is fairly tale magnificent: for spring-summer 2017, it’s a must.
It’s not the first time when I admit that Italians do it better, in case cuisine, and their craftsmanship in fashion. Since Milan fashion week is getting better and better each season with exciting designers like Massimo Giorgetti, Alessandro Dell’AcQua, Stella Jean and Alesssandro Michele, the rivalry is strong – but Francesco Scognamiglio wins my heart with his spring-summer 2016 outing, which was all about dreamy, sheer dresses. The delicate lace details and ruffled sleeves of these flawless gowns are mesmerising. Magdalena Frackowiak, Aya Jones and Peyton Knight looked like angels wearing those sensual, white silhouettes… and if talking of Francesco, a big deal is coming up – during the upcoming haute couture week in Paris, the designer will present his first ever couture collection! So we can all expect an excessive dose of modern fairy-tale looks and one-of-a-kind pieces.
After you see Thom Browne’s collection, you totally forget about normcore, practical clothing and slouch dressing. Ignoring the trends and tendencies, Thom always does something magical in his shows. This time, we went to a magical forest party, where everything is full of bloom and colour. Out of the shark tooth tweed, colourful feathers are “growing” out. Flowers are simply evolving from the signature TB handbags, and different beautiful things happen on the long gowns… this magnificent performance/presentation is definitely a NYFW’s highlight. Thom Browne, you always stay the same Enfant Terrible of fashion. Hope you will never change!
Like a Nordic warrior – from the past or far in the future, we couldn’t tell. Cornrows circled the models’ heads like a beehive, with two plaits left long at the front. Faces were deathly pale with a white sheen as if frosted, and lips a cold metallic. That was the Alexander McQueen show, showed in a mossy, misty forest. Soft, virgin-white pieces worn against untouched, alabaster skin: broderie anglaise dresses with billowing peasant sleeves and starched white pilgrim collars tied with black bows. The damned temptresses wore gothic black: sheer dresses dotted with black feathers that grew into a full feather skirt, seductive low-cut gowns of inky ruffles, and shadowy black fur hoods. Final sheer white gowns were embroidered with stars and moons suggestive of the occult pentagram. These McQueen brides glided along the moss-covered ground, their pristine feathered hems trailing in their wake.