Feminine Fighters. Haider Ackermann SS16

October 9, 2015October 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I won’t lie that during Paris Fashion Week I just can’t wait to see my favourite designers’ work. Haider Ackermann tops the list with Phoebe Philo of Celine, and there is a reason why. There is a small group of designers who really do have their signature and can freely have fun with it, in an unconventional way. Haider is the Belgian master of layering – his talent of styling and mixing clothes is unique. And his spring-summer 2016 outing is one of the most intriguing. This season, his woman had a punk attitude, with fluorescent hair and a classic, biker jacket. “There was leather, velvet, silk, a mix of everything in women who were sexual, fighters. But they weren’t warriors, like all women they were in search of something, so they went out and found it.” The collection was rooted in femininity. I thought that Haider Ackermann’s role-model was an imaginary version of Marie Antoinette, who came across Coachella and Glastonbury. Note the shoes – Cubano boots will be strong next season. The ones with zebra print look so good with the decadent, pink slip-dress above. I can say straight- ahead, that this is my favourite look of the season. It’s just perfect in its acid splashed chaos.

Female. The Row Resort’16

June 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Row makes minimalism and “effortless” luxury its routine, and we all know it by observing the last years of Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen at their brand. Resort 2016 tells a story about artists like Constantin Brâncuși or Jean Cocteau. They thought of a painter in his studio, in his oversize painter’s blouse that’s cinched at the waist. This image is balanced with the strong feminine spirit. And this wardrobe is her outside weapon filled with well tailored pieces for every scenario or journey she might encounter. She might be as laid-back as can be in a robe – or in enough layers to cast her sophistication and her strength.

Wear The Dream

May 16, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I used to think that I am the only one, who yawns when sees Elie Saab’s boring evening gowns. Many designer who do evening-wear think that an excessive amount of Swarovski and flesh-exposing-cuts is just it. But thankfully, Rosie Assoulin is the woman to say a loud “NO” to that. The New York-based designer creates dresses which are mostly categorised as “evenining” ones, but surprisingly look as good with white sneakers as with heels. By looking at the latest, AW15 collection by Rosie, it’s easy to conclude, that these simply cut, boldly-coloured dresses look at their best with sweatpants and yes, even with hoodies. Her clothes are like cameleons – they fit into nearly each occasion. The stand-out pieces are definitely the signature cropped tops worn over white shirts, corduroy pants and of course, the dreamy maxi-gowns. Somehow, with Assoulin, the statement “wear the dream” becomes real.

Amelie from Milan. Gucci AW15

February 26, 2015January 20, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

New day, new dawn. Alessandro Michele starts a new era at Gucci. Forget the hedonistic business woman from Tom Ford and Frida Gianini times. Rather than fancy yachts buyer and looking like a sex-bomb on a cocktail party at rich friend’s house, the woman of totally not-famous Alessandro Michele is a warm, poetry-loving girl who enjoys a walk in the forest. The ex-accessories designer of Gucci, Michele is in the business of ready-to-wear, and I’ve got really mixed thoughts about him.
First of all, the whole situation makes me think of Saint Laurent and Hedi Slimane – before, YSL had Stefano Pilati, who prefered sexy women of success. After a sudden change, Hedi Slimane, the ex-Dior Homme designer, came, and showed everybody his love to punk. I remember it like yesterday – everybody was disgusted with his scandalous AW13 which featured mohair cardigans, spiked boots and grungy, Zara-looking like babydoll dresses. And totally same thing happens at Gucci now. Frida Gianini, which made Gucci women feel very luxurious, is exchanged by Alessandro Michele. And this guy, which came nearly from nowhere, brings Amelie-like naive sheer dresses, fluffy fur babooschakas and Berets. Yes, it’s not punk, but it still feels defiant comparing to Gianini’s vision.
What can I say about the collection? The embroidery is magnificent. The shoes are good in their ugliness. The woman for AW15 makes me think of a vintage-loving person, which loves flea markets and her old granny fur coat. Although she likes showing her feminine side, she is not against androgynous looks. Rather than boasting with her GG logo, Michele’s girl sees eponymous luxury in her Tudor-esque rings.
It’s always hard to judge the debuting designer. In my opinion, we need to see more of Alessandro and what he can do for Gucci – but the first impression is not good or either bad – it’s truly confusing. This what we saw before at this heritage Italian house is a HUGE contrast to what the new days are going to be like. So, lets see what the future will bring.

Sexy. Altuzarra SS15

September 8, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Well, sexy isn’t nothing new at Altuzarra’s runway. The unbottoned shirt with a pencil skirts is the signature of Joseph Altuzarra. But this summer, the designer went a little bit further, if talking of women’s appeal. We had some seriously beautiful dresses here, with a cute pink gingham. Then, we had some pencil skirt evetion. The next big thing was the leather- Joseph made it super seductive, placing it within the transparent dresses and blouses. We also so a lot of bras and sexy v-cuts. And at last, the Emilio Pucci-like hand-painted gowns, which felt very gypsy spirited. In my opinion, Altuzarra did a piece of good work! For the first time since three seasons I feel something new, something created truly by Joseph. It’s not like something. It’s feminine, sexy… it’s the real Altuzarra woman!