Demna Serves Classics. Balenciaga Resort 2019

Balenciaga’s resort 2019 look-book got released this morning, and it couldn’t be more Balenciaga – as we know it from Demna Gvasalia. True, there are less hoodies and much less sneakers (now, replaced by more classic looking black men’s boots). But the hybrid trench coats for him and her, voluminous pussy bow blouses, pleated dresses (in cheesy-chic flag print this season), dad jeans, oversized duvet jackets and XXL bazaar bags are all here. Those are the already-cult pieces that seem to be here with Balenciaga for years, not for a few seasons. Other than new colour combinations and a number of tailoring additions, the pre-collection brings nothing new to the table – except the fact that Gvasalia’s designs have completely synthesised with the maison he designs for. Still, there’s one element that will surely catch your attention if you seek the newness. “The symbol on the bags is the one for transgender.” The arrival of the pink and the blue leather shopping bags printed with the black circle, arrow, and cross couldn’t be better timed. First, they look great, second – they defy Trump’s intention to erase the transgender agenda. “I often try to include some messages that are important to be spread,” Gvasalia says. “It’s almost like advertising an idea, this very strong symbol.” Love it or hate it, he can’t go wrong.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Confidence. Eckhaus Latta SS18

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The thing about New York Fashion Week is that most of young designers, who show this time around are a) not standing for anything substantial or b) do The Row / Céline knock-offs. Eckhaus Latta, however, is far, far different. Maybe because Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta are originally from Los Angeles? Maybe. But coming back to NYFW, their fashion show had messages. Be confident. Be yourself. And respect your body. Transparency and volume play made the silhouettes of sheer dresses look radical, while various knits clung the body comfortably. One of the models was pregnant, and the designers embraced that in a beautiful manner by dressing her in a button-down dress that exposed her belly. The models varied in age as well as in gender and race. Full diversity isn’t a trend, but the ultimate truth for Eckhaus Latta.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Gender Fluid, Ageism and Raw. Eckhaus Latta SS16

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Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta know how to strike New York. They don’t need Marina Abramovic to make a performance, they don’t need a celebrity-crowded front row. Eckhaus Latta is the brand, that makes the topic of gender-fluid fashion more accessible, and somewhat, intriguing. Their spring-summer 2016 collection was arty and avant-garde, but surprisingly werable. Also, it said “stop” to ageism – the designer duo’s 50+ friends walked the runway in sheer, body stocking jumpsuits. Nudity was the topic of the show, too. The models wore all those transparent blouses and mini-dresses with confidence and original, free-spirited attitude. There is a catecorigal difference between a professional model wearing an almost naked outfit, and a person that really wears the clothes. The feeling of Eckhaus Latta’s nudity is raw, but absolutely true. Although we couldn’t notice a usual blogger pack, the undergroud influencers of New York,  (Dev Hynes, Juliana Huxtable, Alexandra Marzella, and Grace Dunham, among others) presented amazing, voluminous silhouettes and edgy tank-tops made from the strangest textiles I have ever seen. I must admit – after seeing the second Eckhaus Latta collection in a row, I am  much more amused and overhelmed with it, than with the massive Givenchy show that took place earlier this week. Sometimes, less is really more.

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Female. JW Anderson SS14

Slide1-kopiaLondon Fashion Week have just started… and it’s first hot collection is over here! The J.W. Anderson for SS14 is like a round-up and something more of his all collections. This young, ultra talented designers who claims that fashion will never be art for him, is going to be invested by… yes LVMH, as rumours say. Will we soon see a first J.W. Anderson store in London? Hopefully. This collection is definitely one of the strongest collection of Jonathan- I loved all these textures that looked like origmi and these transparent tops with black elements look marvelous… maybe it is not to pracitical since boobs will be seen and a bra would surely spoil it, but the world of J.W. is always shocking. Anderson is famous for his menswear collection full od skirts and dresses, and is mostly known for his gender mix aesthetics… However this collection is very feminine. And I like it!

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Boheme. Dries Van Noten AW13

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Mr. Dries Van Noten, that’s coming from Belgium, is going really boheme this time. First of all everything looks loosy and really affordable. And comfortable. There is a big gender mix- boy meets girl and girl meets boy. It is easy to see by looking just at the shoes! A lot of cashmere sweaters, midi skirts with fluffy feathers in multicolour, everything shines bright as always! A lot of flower print was seen and elegant garments killed with a nonchalant scarves. Very Dries!

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And one more time- these dresses and skirts made out of some kind of feathers in fresh colours like red or yellow are great contrast for a grey top! Everything is different, but in a harmony state. Nothing is biting anyhing, but still it keeps a avant-garde tone. Paris boheme from past would be stunned. And I do also. This collection is as great as the last one inspired with grunge and Kurt Cobain (it also had something bohemian in it)!

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