Men’s / Trailblazing. Y/Project SS19

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It’s complicated. With Y/Project, you have this certain feeling when you look at the label’s clothes. Take denim pants or a shirt. They do reminiscent pants and a shirt, but then… not exactly. This season, Glenn Martens surprised with a wrapping technique featuring nylon and lycra stretched atop any garment, which can be effortlessly taken off or put on at any moment. Depends on to what extent you want to sophisticate your outfit. It wouldn’t be Martens’ work if the collection didn’t mess with proportions: deliberately too much of fabric near the crotch, not enough near the torso. Those aren’t easy clothes – but who said they should be? Y/Project intrigues with colour combinations, as well. From wine burgundy and baby pink to soft lilac and rusty yellow, there’s not much in common, nothing really works together. And again – it somehow does! The women’s capsule is equally confusing, but appealing as well. Those denim high-rise shorts over pink tights made a stir in the social media yesterday. Glenn Martens is not a guy that desperately seeks controversy, but his clothes nearly always provoke. Love it. At least, not everyone considers menswear a shallow sport trend outlet.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Show Off. Y/Project AW18

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Once can’t help, but I note that Glenn Martens‘ autumn-winter 2018 collection for Y/Project had something of a show-girl. The venue, which appeared to be the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées on the fancy Avenue Montaigne, was also a clue. Spotlight stealers? Draped taffeta gowns, intricate embroideries on sheer tops, floor-sweeping lengths and a couture-ish tube dress swishing with gold fringing. Of course, all that galore and splendour done in a signature, Y/Project manner, read: stylishly over-sized and distorted.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / UGG in the Hood. Y/Project AW18

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To be honest, it was quite predictable that at some point, with ‘ugly’ shoes having a moment, UGG will also hit the high fashion runways. But I never thought that in such way as presented on yesterday’s Y/Project runway. Glenn Martens earned his fanbase with elongating and distorting nearly each garment possible; so he did in his collaboration with the Australian footwear brand, known for the fluffiest and cosiest boots. The effect? Well, really, really perfect for snowy winters. But the label’s autumn-winter 2018 wasn’t only about big feet, but layering. Layering, layering, layering, whether we’re speaking of extra-large hoodies, tartan shirts or tailoring.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Not Just Pretty. Y/Project SS18

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Deconstruct and reconstruct with sense of costume history – that’s something Glenn Martens is keen on doing at Y/Project. Here, the Belgian designer’s garments aren’t just ‘over-sized’ like in case of many long-emerging, not-fully-established designers in Paris. It’s more about a witty take on Henry VIII’s and Hamlet’s volumes. Martens knows a lot about fashion (read FASHION, not #fashion) and its old techniques – this let’s him to experiment with the silhouette freely, choosing such fabrics like linen or tulle to do the shoulders and sheaths. From extremely big coats with ruffles and pleats to pearl embellished dresses, Y/Project is a combination of street and royalty. Of course, everything’s worn with the brand’s signature, folded thigh-high boots or laced-up sandals (covered in those kitschy roses). It’s also worth noting that other than dramatic tracksuits and oddly cut ball gowns, Glenn adds more affordably looking pieces, like the dusty pink trousers and baby-blue shirts in his spring-summer 2018 line-up. 

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.