#IntaLOVE – July 2018

July 30, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

@davidluraschi

I am an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you are ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my July recommendations!

@loljacobs / Lolita Jacobs is the Paris-based creative director and stylist, whose Instagram feed is like a livestream mood-board consisting of Françoise Hardy looks and Irving Penn’s still life photographs. But also, once you click ‘follow’, be prepared for having your wedding goals levelled up. The pics of her’s and Jean-Baptiste Talbourdet-Napoleone’s St. Tropez wedding, that took place this month, are heaven. Especially, when your bridal looks consist of custom Jacquemus and Alaia.

@davidluraschi / You might know David Luraschi for his work for Jacquemus – think the spring-summer 2018 campaign photographed on the volcanic beaches of Lanzarote. His latest editorial for Vogue, starring the incredible Adut Akech, placed the talented photographer even further in the spotlight. Keep this guy on your radar.

@maryamkeyhani / With Maryam Keyhani’s feed, you’re entering a fantastical reality of, as Vogue puts it, sculptor, painter, wife, mother, surrealist, and dreamer; but hat lady is certainly near the top of a list. Maryam is based in Berlin and she’s about to launch her headwear line in autumn. Expect the most marvelous headpieces you (or rather she) can imagine. Other than hats, it’s vintage clothing and the way she styles it that makes Keyhani’s account so… addicting. I mean, wouldn’t you wear a huge ball-gown in front of a Louis Bourgeois installation?

@pppiccioli / There are many reasons why you should follow Pierpaolo Piccioli on the ‘gram. First snaps from Valentino campaigns (lately done by Juergen Teller); backstage moments from the shows (think the latest haute couture collection and that ecstatic feather gown Kaia Gerber wore); postcards from designer’s trip to Morocco. Do you really need more to be convinced?

@luncheonmagazine / Luncheon Magazine calls itself a ‘cultural serving’. Well, there’s no other more precise way to describe it. From the magical spread featuring the photos of Renata Litvinova by Gosha Rubchinskiy, to a detailed text on Euan Uglow by Paul Smith (yes, this Paul Smith), the latest issue of Luncheon is a feast. In all aspects: visual and intellectual. Check out Luncheon’s Instagram for some delightful teasers and peeks at their London events.

AND, if you want to follow one more account on Instagram… why don’t you follow, ta-da, @designandculturebyed?

Chavs and Checks. Burberry AW17

September 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’s a new, very common tendency in fashion for speeding up the sales. While in the past, that was done by launching a new perfume, today, it’s making the clothes feel Vetements (with some smaller or bigger alternations). In case of Burberry, Christopher Bailey‘s strategy was to pin-up that popularly over-sized, ‘I don’t care how I look’ style to the brand’s biggest heritage – the Burberry check – that lately wasn’t a top-seller. The bootleg power has its impact, after all, and as the current consumer fancies looking cheap, that’s a very, very good shot.

Following the successful recipe of many brands, Bailey invited the ‘cool pack’ to collaborate in the new season. So we’ve got Gosha Rubchinskiy, who has already presented a glimpse of the Burberry collab in his recent menswear collection that took place last June in Saint Petersburg. The Russian photographer, known for capturing the post-Soviet skate youth and rave scene, also contributed to Burberry’s photography exhibition, ‘Here We Are‘, curated by Alasdair McLellan. But back to the clothes: not that the overall collection was bad. Quite opposite – it was one of the best Burberry collections in a while. Lots of heavy knitwear worn over sheer dresses (lovely, rustical mood of Scottish highlands); PVC jackets in pastel pink; and of course, checks covering everything from coats to the ‘chav’ inspired caps. The effect? Sure, I took out my well-forgotten, beige scarf for a walk. Looked at it with a ‘fresh’ eye. But if taking a closer look at that Gosha-coolness of this collection, Burberry’s new-season directions says as follows: ‘desperate’.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Kaliningrad. Gosha Rubchinskiy AW17

January 13, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

During men’s fashion month, Florence’ Pitti Uomo and Milan are the sure go-to destinations after London. However, the new-gen designers coming from the former Soviet Union are here to break fashion’s conventions. Gosha Rubchinskiy, skater-loving photographer and designer from the bloc, used to present his collections in Paris; for spring-summer 2017 he took us to Italy; and for autumn-winter 2017, he invited a couple of key editors and buyers to Kaliningrad. If someone’s unsure about the geographical position of the show’s location, that’s the capital of Russian province divided by Lithuania and Poland.

While Soccer World Cup 2018 is taking place here, Rubchinskiy had a perfect reason to take the industry to this rather off-fashion’s-radar place. Now, streetwear fanatics, prepare for jaw-dropping news: Gosha presented his Adidas Football collaboration, which is purely symbolic in regards of the country’s Cold War-era black market history, and Russian’s football team gear. The collaboration consists of pieces ranging from football shirts to hoodies and accessories, all baring the world ‘football’ in Cyrillic script. The clothes were styled in a classical, Gosha way – skate-fit sportswear, boy-from-the-hood tracksuits and ironically masculine suits. Synthetic-white sneakers and a blue shirt – Russian guy look from the 90s, just like the geometric, post-modern prints on the slouchy knits. So, are you in the team?

What’s Hot (14.7.16)

Image | July 14, 2016July 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Men’s – Safe and Defend. Gosha Rubchinkiy AW16

January 23, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Cпаси и Cохрани. “Save and defend“. If the menswear fashion month wasn’t depressive enough (take Prada’s response towards migrants and Rick Owens’ apocalyptic vision of the world), then Gosha Rubchinskiy delivered us a dose of sweatshirts with Cyrillic signs, which aren’t too optimistic in their meaning either. In Orthodox religion, “save and defend” is a caption which accompanies nearly every icon – they are meant to protect an individual from different oppressions. However, in Gosha’s collection, the sweatshirts were more like direct messages to the world – which might, or might not refer to Soviet nations (specifically Russia), which suffer from political and economic crisis. Traditionally, Rubchinskiy sent the runway with street-cast boys, who had the “I don’t care it’s a fashion show” look in their eyes. The Russian designer is known for his raw and extremely off-duty style – the Tam-Tam Club, a St. Petersburg nightclub from the 90s built-in a former Communist Youth building, is what Gosha mentioned as a place he recalls the closest to autumn-winter 2016 attitude. If talking of the clothes, we all know the signatures – the Гоша Рубчинский (translates into Gosha Rubchinskiy, of course) tops, yellow sweatpants and over-sized, slightly tattered biker jackets phreshed off the runway. In other words, the idea which begun the Gosha Rubchinskiy cult hasn’t changed much. Surely, the designer’s loyal followers will fall in love with these looks.