Men’s – Safe and Defend. Gosha Rubchinkiy AW16

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Cпаси и Cохрани. “Save and defend“. If the menswear fashion month wasn’t depressive enough (take Prada’s response towards migrants and Rick Owens’ apocalyptic vision of the world), then Gosha Rubchinskiy delivered us a dose of sweatshirts with Cyrillic signs, which aren’t too optimistic in their meaning either. In Orthodox religion, “save and defend” is a caption which accompanies nearly every icon – they are meant to protect an individual from different  oppressions. However, in Gosha’s collection, the sweatshirts were more like direct messages to the world – which might, or might not refer to Soviet nations (specifically Russia), which suffer from political and economic crisis. Traditionally, Rubchinskiy sent the runway with street-cast boys, who had the “I don’t care it’s a fashion show” look in their eyes. The Russian designer is known for his raw and extremely off-duty style – the Tam-Tam Club, a St. Petersburg nightclub from the 90s built-in a former Communist Youth building, is what Gosha mentioned as a place he recalls the closest to autumn-winter 2016 attitude. If talking of the clothes, we all know the signatures – the Гоша Рубчинский (translates into Gosha Rubchinskiy, of course) tops, yellow sweatpants and over-sized, slightly tattered biker jackets phreshed off the runway. In other words, the idea which begun the Gosha Rubchinskiy cult hasn’t changed much. Surely, the designer’s loyal followers will fall in love with these looks.

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5 Comments

  1. I don’t feel like a Gosha Rubchinkiy fan / victim neither. Love your blog, I will have an eye on it!

    • You’re not alone then, as I also don’t get the reason why are people so obsessed with him :)
      Thank you for all your comments, I appreciate them so much! XX ED

      • Honestly, i don’t understand too why so many People are obsessed with Gosha’s and Vetements creations. Maybe because of “post soviet touch” , all this is new for the fashion world… But what happens when the trend passes and attention inevitably shifts elsewhere? Gosha had luck, he has Adrian Joffe’s Support, it is good but same time … Source : BoF :” “Of course, it’s business for me, but it’s more than just business.” Currently, the Gosha Rubchinskiy label does not exist as a separate business entity and the Gosha Rubchinskiy trademark, which Joffe registered, is wholly owned by Comme des Garçons. “The trademark is held by Comme des Garçons Paris International,” explains Joffe. “We hold the trademark and produce it, give Gosha money and sell to Dover Street, of course, a few days before everybody else.”
        Sorry, i wrote a very long comment :-)

      • Thank you for commenting, it’s really good to read your thoughts! ! I agree with what you wrote on Gosha. However, I think Vetements has bigger potential in design terms, though! ED XX

      • Sure, Vetements is trendy, everyone has heard about this brand, Demna’s Vetements and Michele’s Gucci are both trends of the moment.I prefer Gucci, Vetements is too hardcore , but i wrote it yet, i think. :-)

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