To adorn a person’s head is probably one of the most intimate pleasures to celebrate one’s visible personality. Next to the thoughts, the eyes, the ears, the mouth and nose, the sensual relation is almost obvious. In contrary to a mask, which hides and transforms the identity of the wearer, a hat reveals the features of the face, embraces the profile and donates the head with regal attention. It’s a signature to the one who dares to decorate their features as well as it offers a moment of intrigue to the observer. Fiona Bennett does all that with her gifted hands and creations. She passionately revolutionises the classic headwear through a subtle balancing act into new dimensions and unusual, but highly poetic shapes. Her mission and true intention is to invent a perfect frame for an individual. Her precious and most significant attribute as a millinery reserves that one will always recognize the beauty of the wearer first, then, by a second glance, the beauty and art of the millinery. As outrageously visionairy and exquisitly designed her charming creations might be, they never overwhelm or dominate the face underneath. That’s the magic of Fiona and her beautiful boutique-studio in Berlin. For the gorgeous dames, non-chalant mad-hatters and not only.
Potsdamer Straße 81-83 / Berlin
All photos by Edward Kanarecki.
‘La bombe’ is the way Simon Porte Jacquemus thinks of his late mother, Valérie, who is the designer’s lifetime inspiration and muse. It’s a popular saying for beautiful, confident women in the Soe uth of France – the region, where the designer was born and which he continues to celebrate in his collections. The spring-summer 2018 show was like a sun-drenched fashion poetry, that took place in an extraordinary location – at Musee Picasso in Paris (no other fashion show took place here before). A special place requires special clothes, and Jacquemus’ pieces will be exactly what you’re going to demand when the summer comes – mini-dresses kept in sultry lengths, curved straw hats (slightly different from the ones from the memorable spring-summer 2017 La Santons de Provence collection), polka dots and lots of eclectic, Lacroix-like jewellery, but kept in a more minimal, sweet-candy style. This season, the textures feel softer than usual at Jacquemus. The young designer is keen on experimenting and he felt like draping and shaping the silhouette with the textiles, rather than keeping it stiff and statuesque. Simon had also been thinking about “French Island girls—they could be in Corsica, or Martinique in the Caribbean, too.” Henri Matisse’s paintings appear in my mind right away…
The overall effect? Blushing girls with their unfinished make-ups, in care-free dresses that they really ENJOY wearing – that’s the most frivolous and heart-warming start of Paris fashion week you could imagine. The Jacquemus femme is a bomb in every meaning of this word this (and every) season, that’s for sure.
All collages by Edward Kanarecki.
Not owning a panama hat this summer is like being absolutely unaware of the invasive Jane-Birkin-style basket importance. Are you still looking for the right straw hat to fit the upcoming sunny days? The Berlin-based milliner, Fiona Bennett, might have what you’re looking for. The hats coming from her ‘One World’ capsule are hand-woven with traditional techniques in a village in the Bolgatanga region in Ghana. The used straw is from local abundant kinkanhe (Veta Vera) grass and its coloured with natural dyes. Fiona’s website has more than two pages of different silhouettes fitting various head-types, so don’t hesitate to check them out (or visit her studio-slash-boutique, if you’re in the German capital).
Potsdammer Straße 81-83 / Berlin
Whether you’re a revolutionary spirit dressing like the European youth in 1968 (see Eva Green in Bertolucci’s The Dreamers to get the point) or a to-be French girl dreaming of Carrie Bradshaw’s great Parisian escape with Alexandr Petrovsky – Miuccia Prada has the next season headwear sorted out for you. One of the biggest surprises at Prada‘s autumn-winter 2017 fashion show was the comeback of berets and biker hats. Worn with long scarves and sea-shell necklaces, both of them looked adventurous (in one of the three versions: knitted, pony hair or patchwork). The guys wore their berets in corduroy with a defiant, Che Guevara attitude. Full throttle!
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Wow. Jonathan Anderson really shocked everybody during his SS15 show. Like, really. And definitely the master of modern adrogeny takes us to a new level of femininity. Me, being slightly bored with Anderson’s minimal, sharp tunics and dresses, thic tres chic (yes, CHIC, at J.W. Anderson) brought something controversial and interesting. With a lot of leather and giving a leg, the whole collection was “hid” under huge, black hats… That was a really beautiful, lady-like moment. Also, the jewellery was good… Wooden buckles and puzzle necklaces are major. Although I am not always a fan of J.W. Anderson collection (like for example last season), I always feel something new will be presented… Is Jonathan the Phoebe Philo of London? Think so. By the way, happy birthday Jonathan Anderson! It’s your 30! And- well- you did yourself a really good present!