Raf Simons Departures Dior

October 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

When this information hit us all yesterday in the evening, there was a “what has just happened” moment. Raf Simons, both spontaneously and officially, said good-bye to Dior, the Parisian mega-house. Simons has revitalised and modernised the brand throughout the three-year tenure, after John Galliano was fired due to his public, anti-semitic affair. The reason of this sudden change is not that surprising, though – Raf Simons leads his own, eponymous label for men and he has always called his journey at Dior as a “temporary, but beautiful adventure, which really lets him discover the feminine part of fashion“. Observing Simons since his first, haute couture collection in 2012, it was clear from the very first moment that the brand will go through a major refreshment – minimal silhouettes, simple forms and mind-blowing, floral show settings accompanied Raf from the beginning. I can’t say that I am super sad about Raf leaving the brand – I must admit, that some of the collections felt monotonous and exhausting (just like his last, spring-summer 2016 show which was presented three weeks ago). However, up to now I am impressed with his Monaco-based resort 2016, historically influenced autumn-winter 2015 couture and abstract spring-summer 2013 – all of them seem to look far into the future of woman’s wardrobe. Certainly, the time spent by Raf Simons at Dior ultimately defined those three years of fashion – “conceptual design” and “futuristic femininity” fit this period well.

The thing is, the new designer of Dior will be named soon – and I hope, that LVMH won’t elect a designer, who will simply not match the codes of Dior. There are some rumours, that the luxury concern can give Alexander Wang a fair chance to take this place – but please, remind yourself the hard times that Wang spent at Balenciaga – his fashion bored everyone and depressed the owners of the brands due to low ready-to-wear incomes. So guys, leave Wang alone. Also, there are high chances for Phoebe Philo and Riccardo Tisci (her contract will soon end at Celine, while his at Givenchy). I see Philo at Dior, but she matches Celine so perfectly… and Tisci will make Dior a 500-euro-t-shirt brand. Personally, I would give a chance to somebody totally unknown – like Gucci did with Alessandro Michele. Sometimes, the most unexpected choice gives the best results. And coming back to Simons, I am happy for him and his decision – I wish him even more successes in expanding his own, eccentric brand!

Haute Couture AW12

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Haute Couture SS13

AW13

Haute Couture AW13

Resort 2015

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Haute Couture AW14

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Haute Couture AW15

Resort 2016

Haute Couture SS15

Pre-Fall 2015

Haute Couture AW14

Haute Couture SS15

Haute Couture AW15

Raf Simons, the conceptual, Belgian fashion designer.

HC – Great Beauty. Valentino AW15

July 11, 2015July 11, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

In the heart of Rome, the Italian house of Valentino presented its haute couture collection which just showed us, that this specific season is all about eponymous splendour. In 1960, Valentino Garavani founded his brand in the eternal city – now, its a label which can be called a fashion empire. But what’s most interesting in this collection is the fact that the creative directors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, had it presented in Valentino’s hometown and not as usual, in Paris. The venue of the fashion show was bulit on Piazza Mignanelli – the place where Valentino himself staged his shows in the past.

The colour of black is ususally misunderstood. But in reality, black is poetic, elusive and mysterious. These words precisely describe this collection for AW15. “Rome is just a little bit noir, a little sinister” said Pierpaolo before the show, giving us the idea behind the city and the collection’s connection. Leather flowers trellised a sheer tulle cape, while minuscule beads added character to a gladiator minidress. And the repeating arch motif on a floor-sweeping, wool and velvet cape? A treasure. This is one of these collections you are going to remember for a long time.

HC – Fourrure. Fendi AW15

July 10, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The last fourrure was presented 90 years ago. Two days ago, Karl Lagerfeld, the creative director of Fendi, showed the world what is the definite fur splendor. As the name fourrure might suggest, it is a haute couture collection which is utterly focused on… fur. Chinchilla, sable and mink were presented in form of long, floor-weeping coats, flesh explosing jumpsuit and amazingly detailed sweaters – and these were not only interesting because of the fact they were made from a fusion of cashmere and fluff, but because they were embellished with huge flowers, of course shaped from fur. The cape worn by Julia Nobis at the end of the show may have been all about feathers “transforming” into a silver-tipped skirt, which set our minds on a cross-species category search. PETA was set at bay during the fashion show – and all your furry fantasies became real.

HC – Mash Up. Maison Margiela AW15

July 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I have very mixed feelings about John Galliano designing for Maison Margiela. His first haute couture collection was warmly welcomed, but partly because it was his debut after a long period of pause; his AW15 ready-to-wear was all about eccentric ladies which couldn’t be us dramatic as they wanted to be – in other words, this collection felt tamed and unnecessarily too calm, like if the designer was scared to shock. And now, as we already got used to Galliano at Margiela, its time for a honest opinion about this case. The new haute couture presented yesterday in Paris looked like a collection designed by a young fashion student who sewed it just before the dead-line, having in mind a chaotic mood-board without any sensible idea. Minimal silhouettes (which totally don’t match John’s adoration to opulence), glitter scattered all over the mini-dresses, a bit of tapestry embellished onto the capes and a big, white garbage bag instead of a beautiful bridal dress. And additionally the idea of Japanese sharpness which was suddenly presented in form of an obi-belted coat. It utterly felt like Galliano didn’t have any precise idea for this season and for this collection. Showing off trashy styling, shoes made for “breaking your legs” and telling people that its all so into Martin Margiela’s spirit makes me feel hurt. I love Martin Margiela as Martin Margiela and I used to love John Galliano, to sum it up.

HC – Casino. Chanel AW15

July 8, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

This season, Karl Lagerfeld took us to a casino in oder to show, that everybody there wear Chanel haute couture. Karl’s muse splash – Stella Tennant, Kristen Stewart, Lara Stone, Julianne Moore – gambled on the roulette tables while the models circled the spacious runway. But it seemed, that this what the models wore during the show was the least important. The whole event of a casino stole the spotlight and nobody really looked at the fashion part. Well, maybe because all those dresses, little (black) jackets and tweed skirts felt… boring? During the last few seasons, if talking of couture, Karl gives us the same idea behind the clothes. Classy, lady-like silhouettes without any fantasy. Just look back at the last few seasons. The scenarios of runways are always amazing and Instagram-worthy, but the dresses (and haute couture is mostly about beautiful dresses!) are being neglected.