Parisian Crowd. Ami AW22

This was one, big, star-studded Ami collection. “We have done two digital shows and now we’re back. It’s a kind of resistance,” said Alexandre Mattiussi backstage at his autumn-winter 2022 fashion show. “We wanted to stay brave – because it feels like [in Paris] we can still go to the restaurants, we can still go to the cinemas and theaters, why would you want to cancel a show?” He chose as his venue Palais Brongniart, the old stock exchange building at Place de la Bourse. Mattiussi had the Métro on his mind. “It’s the only place today in a city where everybody is on top of each other. There’s an old lady, a guy coming out from a party, a guy who is on the way to work, kids, grandmothers, different vibes, different cultures. This is the only place where you don’t have the choice of who you will be seated with,” he observed. “It’s a democratic thing. And Ami is about dressing everyone.” So, in the Ami world, Isabelle Adjani commutes with metro, just like Emily Ratajkowski, and wear clothes that draw heavily on the French wardrobe tropes. Trench coats, shearling aviator jackets, slip dresses, black blazers, and tweedy skirt suits – all the timeless essentials, mainly kept in elegant black (and from time-to-time contrasted with neon colours, which wasn’t that necessary). Meanwhile, the big casting shots continued to ring out: Sage and Paloma Elsesser, Ben Attal (son of Charlotte Gainsbourg), and the most gorgeous Laetitia Casta, all brought charisma to the outing. Isabelle Huppert sat front row, chatting to Catherine Deneuve. That’s a very Parisian collection with a very Parisian crowd.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

La Piscine de Jacquemus

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French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus chose to show his Fall ’13 collection at a public pool in Paris’ Bastille neighborhood. Fitting, considering the range was inspired in part by French actress Isabelle Adjani and her 1984 hit song and swim-centric music video, “Pull Marine.” Dreaming of Adjani in the water led Jacquemus to formulate a “tender” ideal of classic French sportiness with a hint of “Cocorico” patriotism.
Jacquemus gave homage to his homeland, France showing the patriotic flags on the shirts. Evident in his white, red, and blue palette and the fabulous white shirt with a Tricolore pocket. Other standouts included a cropped crewneck jacket paired with a low-slung pleated skirt, sweater-skirt combos, a T-shirt dress with trompe l’oeil red bathing suits, and lots of navy and white pin-striped cotton. This label is on my Hot list (the pool idea is stunning) and as for me it’s a bit similar to Julien David! Like if even Jacquemus was trained by David…

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