Italy

Rome!

| Design & Culture by Ed

Rome! I utterly fell in love with this city. It’s just so cinematic, elegant, sunny, magical. The weight of history makes every single street feel so unique, as if those cobblestones and walls told their own story. Here are some of details I captured – my favourite addresses are coming up soon!

Rome’s signature rust red; Karl Lagerfeld’s sketches for Fendi at the brand’s gorgeous Palazzo on Via Condotti; the architectural gem – Pantheon; flower trucks near Campo Di Fiori; Di Trevi fountain, looking fresh after Fendi’s renovation; the opulent Santa Maria’s basilica in Trastevere.

Mum on the streets of Ponte district; Italian lemons…; the gigantic trees in Trastevere; another Roman postcard; those Sicilian pastries near our apartment were heaven.

A coffee situation in Trastevere; near the Spanish Stairs; the ‘can I stay forever at Prada‘s store on Via Condotti?’; there’s nothing more Roman than a Vespa.

Artichokes, minutes before getting fried and served, in the Jewish district; the beauty of bouquet making process at Campo Di Fiori; vintage books near Campo Di Fiori; again, a look at Santa Maria’s basilica in Trastevere – I’m always enchanted by the details here.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Florence Addresses

| Design & Culture by Ed

Other than Trattoria Sostanza and Gucci Garden, which I wrote about in separate posts, here are five more addresses I found interesting in Florence.

Florence’s late-19th-century steel-and-glass market building in San Lorenzo underwent a makeover in 2014 when the second floor was converted into a contemporary food hall. On the first floor of the structure, traditional butchers, fishmongers and fruit/vegetable vendors supply the Florentines. But climb the staircase to the upper level and enter Mercato Centrale, a food-lover’s’ heaven that showcases the very best of Italian regional food. It’s a lively space offering sensual overload, and the range of gustatory delights is nothing short of eye-popping.

Piazza del Mercato Centrale 4

If you’ve been to Trattoria Sostanza (or didn’t catch a table…), go to Buca Lapi. It’s not as off-the-radar, but the restaurant serves classical, Tuscan food in a cozy, home-made way.

Via del Trebbio 1r

The name on everybody’s lips these days in Florence is La Ménagère, a space near San Lorenzo market that combines a restaurant, tapas bar, flower shop (which is actually the best part) and a home-accessories collection, concept-store-style. This place impresses with its details and is highly Instagrammable. Not entirely sure of the food though…

Via de’ Ginori 8

Procacci is this chic go-to spot for Florentines, who are exhausted after their shopping on the fancy Via de Tornabuoni. Delicious, little sandwhiches with truffle paste will make you addicted after the first bite…

Via de’ Tornabuoni 64R

Atelier Dipinti e Bijoux is Stefania Pastacaldi’s boutique. It’s the place where you can find exclusive items of refined, properly Italian jewelry. Gorgeous animal miniatures, used later on in jewellery, is the atelier’s signature. All strictly hand-made.

Via del Sole 24r

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

 

Trattoria Sostanza in Florence

| Design & Culture by Ed

A fact: Trattoria Sostanza is the best restaurant in Florence. Please, if you’re planning a trip to Tusany’s capital, book your table here (at least three-four days in advance). This small restaurant, with a toilet located in the back of the kitchen (yes, you have to go through the entire kitchen, which also means meeting the very Italian cooks!), is the best kept secret of the locals. It might be classical, Tuscan cuisine, with dishes that sound like regular Italian plates. But the taste of every single thing here is heaven. From the Florentine steak and artichoke pie to tortellini stuffed with signature ragout and a plate of tomatoes from the chef’s garden, Trattoria Sostanza really shows what finest Italian food is, in an unpretentious, home-made way. If you’re lucky with the season, you will get wild strawberries (straight from a Sicilian farmer) with your meringue cake – which is a masterpiece. Again, go there. Thank me later.

Via del Porcellana, 25/R / Florence

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Florence

| Design & Culture by Ed

The moment London fashion week was reaching its final moments, I was on the way to Italy for a quite impromptu trip to Florence and Rome – two cities I’ve visited when I was a child and clearly needed a sort of revision. Not in scorching, Italian summer, with crowds of tourists that make you remember just a flood of people going through the corridors of Uffizi, and not Caravaggio’s masterpieces. At the end of February, when Italian spring is already in full bloom, but it’s still the perfect temperature outside to wear a trench coat. And, thanks God, nearly no tourists at all. Ideal way of discovering any place, especially in Italy. Of course, I will post my favourite addresses in both of those cities in the upcoming days. Here, I leave you with some of my favourite moments I’ve captured in Florence – Tuscany’s capital, as romantic and delicious as they say.

Baptistery on Piazza San Giovanni; the street that lead to our villa, hidden in the Tuscan hills just two kilometres from Florence’s city centre; patio of the villa; marble painting at Il Papiro; my mum, wearing a Dries Van Noten fur jacket.

On our way to the centre; pink tights at Uffizi Gallery; typical street situation in Florence; inside of Santa Maria Novella; Prada’s headband.

Bottega Veneta clutches that made us all lose our minds; Santa Maria Novella – completely in love with this place; a very ‘postcard from Tuscany’ clichés (which was actually our view from the villa); Medici’s Palace; mum’s vintage Prada tote from the 90s; Campari!

 

Caravaggio’s Medusa at Uffizi Gallery; Ponte Vecchio (tourist-free as well); a sculpture detail from I can’t really remember where…; another vintage from my mum, 90s Chanel; a street photo booth near the river; Botticelli’s Birth of Venus at Galleria Uffizi – it might cause a heart attack.

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Bologna’s Addresses

| Design & Culture by Ed

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I first wrote about Bologna, the city itself, separately right here. But it wouldn’t be me if I omitted the ‘guide’ part… so, treat yourself this Monday afternoon with the five addresses from the hometown of Bolognese sauce. And take a pen to write down those places, just in case you’re planning your August trip there.

Drogheria Della Rosa

In my humble opinion, that’s the best restaurant in Bologna. Located in a former pharmacy, the food here is quintessentially Italian and feels like made by your grandma from Bologna whose existence was unknown to you for all these years. Yes, it’s that good. It’s highly recommended to make a reservation.

Via Cartoleria 10

L’Inde Le Palais Donna & Uomo

Céline, Gucci, Dries Van Noten and Magda Butrym in the fanciest, palazzo-like interiors. Very lovely customer care. And a truly unique selection of womenswear and menswear, which was quite unexpected – most luxury multibrands in Italy sell precisely the SAME stuff, from the same labels. Here you can notice the presence of a risk-taking buyer.

 Via de’ Foscherari 19/C and Via de’ Musei 6

Camera Con Vista

Although the opulent interior with Roman statues and few chandeliers might suggest old, good Italian cuisine, Camera Con Vista surprises with its signature, Asian additions to nearly every dish. If you feel like you want to slightly change the culinary repertoire, make sure to try this place out. Book in advance.

Via Santo Stefano 14/2a

Ratti & Folli Follie

That’s another luxury multibrand in Bologna, with an equally charming selection of brands – Simone Rocha and Calvin Klein are here, just to name a few. Fashion in Bologna loves a major interior. While the menswear part, Ratti, is cosmic-industrial, women’s Folli Follie is a multi-storey, XXL wardrobe where it’s easy to get lost while looking for a Balenciaga goodie (that’s probably on a heavy discount, by the way).

Via Clavature 15

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Casa Minghetti

Groovy spot for an evening appetizer and drink. But rather a pre-spot to go just before dinner.

Piazza Minghetti, 1A

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That’s the last post regarding my road trip to Italy. See the newly updated ‘Places‘ page to find all of my beloved addresses in Genoa, Portofino, Parma and Bologna!