Men’s – Tokyo Diaries. Umit Benan AW16

January 26, 2016January 26, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

It seems that Paris-based designers feel a strong sentiment to Japan. We know Julien David’s love to Japan, as all of his clothes are made there; for SS16, Olympia Le-Tan created a feminine collection which took its references from Nobuyoshi Araki’s bondage photography and Hotel Okura’s famous architecture legacy. The Japanese story is continued by Umit Benan with his “Tokyo Diaries” collection for men. When the guests arrived to the show, a group of eight men were about to start the “nyotaimori“, a practice known in Japan which is about eating sushi off a naked woman’s body. Benan’s inspirations came from Japan – but don’t expect kimonos or anything as predictable as that. The designer had yakuza gangs on his mind – and you don’t want to mess up with these guys. The street-cast models and Umit’s friends walked the show in athletic tank-tops, judo jackets and corduroy coats with obi belts, while some had the typical, Japan-fashioned braids. The footwear changed dramatically, from sneakers to white tube socks with the toes cut out. The designer, known for his diverse collections, successfully withdrew the clichés of the Land of the Rising Sun and staged a wearable, badass collection.

Men’s – Irony of a Man. Yohji Yamamoto AW16

January 24, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yohji Yamamoto staged an elusive, but powerful collection for the autumn-winter 2016 season. The Japanese designer, who is known for his intellectual, yet sometimes difficult to understand garments, presented a collection which defines today’s masculinity. It might be an old-school, macho guy wearing a tank-top to show off his triceps; there is also the family man, who enjoys comfortable, soft knits. And let’s not forget about the boy who looks good in a man-skirt, which is basically a pocketed sheath covering a pair of woolen combats. Moreover, this meaningful collection was focused on the ironic, hand-stitched signs: “Corporate Motherfuckers” read the slogan on the back of a bumpy, cotton shirt. Then, “The only woman I know is my mother”, and “Help me I’m too hot”. Was this the next, Paris fashion week protest towards the global matters? After a wave of press’ questions, Yohji laughed, saying “It’s a kind of joke”. Whatever all of that means, this collection, based its beauty in its chaos, and in the abstract world of Yamamoto.

Men’s – Spongy Denim. Julien David AW16

January 23, 2016January 23, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julien David never, but never dissapoints to deliver the most exciting fabrics and textures for his menswear collections. Spongy denim. Do you feel it? ‘Cause I do. Utilitarian jump-suits, blazers, pants, coats – I want to have nearly every single piece from autumn-winter 2016 collection, made of this fabulously durable, warp-faced cotton textile. Moreover, this collection is inspired with Akira, a dystopian anime film from 1988, set in futuristic Tokyo. No wonder why Japan, and its modernistic approach, is constantly appearing on Julien’s mind – all of his clothes, for both men and women, are manufactured in Japan. Except the sharp, aluminum spikes on models’ heads, the collection didn’t directly show the stereotypical, bold nature of anime characters; to a big extend, it was all about a comforting neutrality. And whatever they say about the prosperity and functionality of high-tech textiles, David believes denim will still rule in the future.

Japanese Memoirs. Olympia Le-Tan SS16

October 10, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Olympia Le-Tan expands her ready-to-wear, by looking forward to meticulous embroideries and reinterpreting her obsessions into clothes. This season, her collection oozed with sexuality coming straight from Japan – it was intensively inspired with Nobuyoshi Araki, the famous photographer who captures his models tied up with ropes and striking sophisticated poses. The black, satin dresses had those hand-embroidered harness details that looked provoking with red tights and platform heels. Also, the “polaroid” tapestries on mini-skirts pictured geishas and their bodies in an Araki-esque way. But what really made Olympia take Japan as her primary idea behind the collection? The visit to Japan, basically, and her love to Hotel Okura, which was recently demolished in order to build a new, modern skyscraper. A sentimental nod to this beloved place was reflected in “Hotel Olympia” tops and the geometrically patterned floor-covering of the fashion show venue, which reminded everybody of the 60’s-70’s atmosphere.

Proportions. Sacai RE16

July 5, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Over-sized yoga pants. Masterful layering. Smart fabric usage. This is what Chitose Abe of Sacai offers us for Resort 2016. Volumes, which remained fearless in the matter of sweaters and dresses, is as always a signature of this Japanese brand. In addition to all the familiar A-line variations and balloon-bomber jackets, Chitose explored longer lengths in this collection, whether with modern-day transparency or in the same manner as her chic collars. This new, easy softness will not go unnoticed among those who admire but feel overwhelmed by Sacai’s unusual, but comfortable silhouette. A great collection with great clothes – and with great styling.