In Consistence We Trust. A.P.C. AW20

Jean and Judith Touitou presented their autumn-winter 2020 collection as look-book shoot instead of runway – the event was cancelled due to the coronavirus concern. A.P.C. is about product consistence, so don’t expect abrupt newness. However, this season, the styling had changed. The model in look 1 wore a pair of size 35 jeans – Jean’s own size, he said – in which the button and button hole were moved off center to accommodate for the extra fabric. She’s probably more like a 25. Boys got the same oversized treatment. On a back pocket, a white cardboard information label peeked out with washing instructions. Most of the time the jeans were accompanied by a wool sweater, tied as a scarf. Additionally, there were some lovely printed midi-dresses and minis, very thrift-Parisian-chic that rules among the locals. What about the rumour saying that Jean is selling A.P.C. “I don’t want to, I don’t need to,” he said. “I have total freedom, I have a good life. I’m not 14 hours in the studio. No, no. I’m okay.” Thanks God.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Easy Gestures. A.P.C. SS20

“The older I grow, the less subtle I want to be,” Jean Touitou said at his spring-summer 2020 A.P.C. show. He was speaking over a microphone in a courtyard on the Rue Cassette near his headquarters, during the laid-back garden show/presentation. He also added that he was thinking about communist events in the 1970s and nighttime gatherings in city squares. Theory aside, the collection was all about summer colors and easy silhouettes. A tangerine swing coat, a pastel paisley minidress and grass green dinette dresses are the highlights. He clashed this all together with quirky styling tricks, like thick knit socks, backpacks worn on the chest and A.P.C. quilts held up like banners (hand-made by Jessica Ogden). Minimalism and purity of form are main codes at A.P.C., but as Touitou ages, his gestures are becoming easier and more free. On the backs of some pieces he had written slogans in an all-caps font: RADICALLY MINIMAL, POSITIVELY NORMAL. A.P.C. continues to be one of the best labels for daywear.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Beautiful Consistence. APC AW19

This was a classic A.P.C. presentation, with a few plot twists. Jean Toitou invited two collaborators for autumn-winter 2019 collection: Brain Dead, an Los Angeles–based streetwear brand, and Suzanne Koller, the house’s longtime stylist and Parisian friend. The first created graphic hoodies based on the 1972 documentary, Future Shock, in which Orson Welles, playing narrator, discusses how technology is moving too fast for humans to keep up. Koller, the fashion director of M Le Monde and Self Service, designed the collection’s black wool dress (worn by her currently favourite blond, Maggie Mauer) and an oversize parka that she teamed with a monochrome look in gray: chunky sweater, turtleneck, wool trousers, and leather boots. During his speech, Touitou joked, “Maybe you can guess which pieces are hers.” Knowing her style and work, you could think of Koller right away, even not knowing about A.P.C.’s collab.  A.P.C. values consistence, which seems like the best advise for any brand doing shows in Paris. And their eventual ‘surprises’ make this consistence even more beautiful.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Visible. A.P.C. SS19

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Jean Touitou‘s A.P.C. is around for more than 30 years, but it surprisingly still feels like a young, niche brand – with dozens of stores worldwide. This season it seemed that the brand’s founder wanted do something a bit more mature and visible than an intimate presentation in the headquarters. He came up with quite big offering for women and men, filled with A.P.C. classics (and not only). The colour splash – featuring joyous shades of yellow and pink – were something new to Touitou’s repertoire. While the label’s collections often focus on the visibility of the clothes, I had an impression that this time styling became the key. The models’ rockabilly hair brought some spice to the tres chic shirtdresses and lovely denim pieces. A.P.C. is in expansion mode, fashion- and business-forward. To be honest, I loved it’s off-the-radar nature and I would really, really hate to see it go the, lets say, Zadig & Voltaire way. Well, I’m sure Touitou won’t be risking his loyal fan-base…

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

A.P.C., M/M and Bruce

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I’ve recently scored the Transmission book by Jean Touitou on a discount at Voo Store, and I’m so, so surprised by some of the projects the founder of A.P.C. gave creative birth to. For example, back in 2008, the French label invited the art direction gurus from M/M Paris and the quite unlikely match –  Bruce Weber (he’s a risky topic, I know, but let’s acknowledge that the body of photography he created throughout his career is a masterpiece) –  to work on the advertising campaigns. For spring/summer, we’ve got Louis Eisner and Kim Noorda enjoying themselves on beach dunes, styled by Christopher Niquet. While for autumn-winter, we’ve got Gia Coppola enjoying a breakfast with her lover. This time, however, M/M and Bruce took Joe McKenna as the stylist. What I love about the two campaigns is the warmth conveyed by Weber, and the artistic touch brought by M/M Paris’ doodle-like logos. They feel realistic, yet magical at the same time.

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In Paris. APC AW18

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I always consider A.P.C. as intellectual fashion. No, it’s rather a lifestyle. Jean Touitou is the master of simple, yet great quality shirts, dresses, denim and jackets. The autumn-winter 2018 collection for women and men is something of student geek and… Paris. Sorry, I know, I’m the slave of this cliché. But the mini red dress with white-collar and sleeves, styled with those burgundy Mary-Janes in polished leather, is the quintessence of Paris to me. The same as the boys’ leather jumpsuit or one of those preppy floral shirts. I just can’t stop looking at this collection, even though it’s not ground-breaking or ‘disruptive’. It’s pure A.P.C., and we all want to be part of it.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

1987. A.P.C. AW17

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1987. The year A.P.C. was found by Jean Touitou. 2017 – the brand celebrates its 30th anniversary. 30 years of apparel clothing that actually defines the real nature of ready-to-wear. It’s often unclear why A.P.C. became one of the most beloved brands. “It’s boring“, one might say. So what? Their raw denim is well-cut. T-shirts last for years and make the customer satisfied. Trench coats and white shirts are ultimate essentials. A.P.C.’s branding is aesthetical perfection, just like the boutiques, music albums and candles. What’s best – although A.P.C. shows during Paris fashion week, it stays surprisingly affordable (and believe me, when the sale season starts, their Mitte store in Berlin – just like in another cities – becomes a treasure chest).

For autumn-winter 2017, as you might expect, the creative director decided to keep it classic. Anniversaries are no big deal! The clothes are the priority, so it’s quite guaranteed you will fall in love with every single piece. Fur jackets, maxi-dresses, even the thick socks. Oh, and denim! Really, wear it the you want. Over a coat, as a scarf, a lovely jumpsuit or simple jacket.

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