Humour Chic. Maison Margiela AW15

March 10, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

So, here we are. The second collection by John Galliano for Maison Margiela. Without explanation – John matches the spirit of Maison Martin Margiela PERFECTLY. Now with explanation. The collection was a more than fun – it had a melancholic humour in it. A bit childish, a bit grumpy. But bold and full of colour. The vinyl coat with green lilac attached to it talked bad witches; the Mary-Jane shoes were over-sized, so they made us think little children trying to look mature in their mum’s footwear; the orange gloves and voluminous caftans appeared to be inspired with aristocratic ladies who always have this magical aura around them… whatever they say, good that Galliano is back after a traumatic breaks and again brings fashion back to fashion.

HC: Galliano. Maison Martin Margiela SS15

January 13, 2015January 13, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

At the end of the show, every Instagram post said one thing: he’s back. Who? Of course John Galliano. The biggest couturier of 21st century, the story-teller of fashion, the provocateur – is back in great form. At Maison Martin Margiela.

His debutant show was presented in London – which is a major change because all previous Margiela collections were presented in Paris. But in reality, London was the main inspiration behind the Artisanal presentation. It’s youthful attitude, beautiful people and monarchy vs. punk conflict strongly influenced John throughout his career and while creating the collection.

The first look was suprisingly Margiela, but not that much at the same time – Galliano trailed toy cars across the collaged landscape of a tiny suede sheath. The sheath is the signature Martin Margiela piece, but the infantile elements are making us think of John’s spirit of fantasy. Within this excessively embroidered collection, we’ve met so many bold characters. The red queen coming straight from a fairy-tale. The tribal leader wearing a pagan veil. The rebellious dame looking like Vivienne Westwood. The chic dandy in black suite. Many of them were unknown to the house codes, but they feel close to it with their strong identity and need of experimenting.

With a blink-and-you-missed-it bow, John Galliano was seen wearing an iconic white coat from the Margiela atelier. Famous for showing off with his own outfit, this time he thought that’s not needed – the collection itself was so fearless, daring, heroic and stunning, that only the visual experience can express it!

Galliano at Margiela

January 3, 2015January 6, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Guys, that’s happening. John Galliano is taking over Maison Martin Margiela, and presents his first Haute Couture collection this month. Firstly, this combination felt a bit awkward to everybody – Margiela was always known for “minimalism”. But that’s just a fashion stereotype. No. Maison Martin Margiela has never been a minimal label. It’s dramatic, bold, edgy, different. The fact that real Martin Margiela never gave any interview and he is totally anonymous up to today, doesn’t mean that the label is minimalistic. Just look at their past artisanal collections – they are full of couture embroideries, one-of-a-kind textiles (for example tapestry based on La Femme du Roi by Paul Gauguin (1896) or draping made from two hanging textile prints of Mira Lunar, designed by Verner Panton) and fantastic jewellery. Maison Martin Margiela also brought a lot of unexpected accessories to their ready-to-wear – transparent plexi clutches with artificial roses inside or the famous tabi boots, which look like a horse hoof.

I am writing about this, to prove you one thing – reflecting on John Galliano’s collections in the past for Dior, his style should be perfect for Maison Martin Margiela. The fact, that he got drunk and started to say cruel things about Jews in one of Parisian caffees few years ago made him lose his own namesake label and Dior. Everybody showed Galliano their back, and from the first place everybody fell in love with Raf Simons. But forgetting the political matter which was strongly emphasized by LVMH (nobody’s sure whever these guys simply didn’t frame John into this “scandal”. Maybe they simply wanted to get rid of him?)- fashion world felt dull after Galliano’s departure. And the word minimal really matches Raf Simons – yes, his dresses are up till now the most sleepy of all during Haute Couture week in Paris.

But now, Renzo Rosso group, which owns Margiela, took over John Galliano. And hopefully, the fashion world is going to cheer up again, with this man. While waiting to see Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture SS15 by John Galliano in few days, have a look at he biggest Dior / Galliano couture moments and last season’s Margiela / Matthieu Blazy show.

Favourite Addresses in Paris

March 25, 2013July 1, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

COLETTE on Rue du Saint Honore
Colette is a highlight for every fashionista in Paris. Labels like Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Kenzo, Celine and Christopher Kane got their place here together with dozens of great magazines, music and things you need to love! I’m totally a fan of this fantastic place. First you can find here great people, then find great pieces of clothes (I found two great things), Coca-Cola by Marc Jacobs (got it!) or CR Fashion Book and I-D (of course I do have it!).

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CELINE on Avenue Montaigne next to l’Avenue restaurant
A real fur land for this season! These shoes are fantastic even if they are ugly! In various colours, as sandal or heels, they do have their horrible price! As I talked with the Celine person, the most popular are the black fur sandals. The heels are just scarrying because of the price! I truly fell in love with the dresses with net on them- so sexy and modern!

DIOR on Avenue Montaigne
What can I say. The clothes are just a clean elegance and beauty- but the shop? Ok. The shop is also beautiful, but it’s not Raf Simons but still Galliano. The clothes and atmosphere are biting each other. Thanks god they changed the service because it was horrible last time I was in Paris! The dresses are breath taking. So delicate and fragile! But the shoes were unfortunately a disapoinment. Looked kitch and cheap. This rhymes eve

BALENCIAGA on Rue Victor Hugo and Saint Honore
That was a big pleasure to see unfortunately the last time designs by Nicolas Ghesquiere. His designs are so lite and flowless! The shoes with cubic heel are just the hottest thing this season and I loved the bags! Small and practical, looked like boxes! Fromclothes there was only the resort collection… So no ruffled dresses and skirts inspired with ballet Bolero.

LOUIS VUITTON on Avenue Montaigne
The square power! The welcome sign that it’s all LV, were the squares on windows! Inside the first thing I see are the beautiful dresses full of yellow squares. The shoes with a pointy nose are very 60’s and at the same time modern. They were in two types- with md heel and a high heel- but I liked more the mid one.