Last. Céline Pre-Fall 2018

May 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yes, it’s the sad truth. Phoebe Philo‘s pre-fall 2018 really is the last collection for Céline. And, once you calm down after a minute (or two), let the tears dry, face it – this collection is a gift that keeps on giving. I think I’ve went through the images dozens of times by now and I constantly discover something new, something completely fresh, something only Philo could do. As Sarah Mower wrote for Vogue, it’s a collection of “souvenirs”, collectibles to wear and adore in memory of Philo’s Céline era. Those wool ponchos; heavy rubber boots; Margiela-esque duvet coats; the white fur coat with an equally fur belt; simple, Katharine-Hepburn-would-approve blazers. The spontaneous shots of Binx Walton, Jess Cole, Karolin Wolter and Maggie Maurer (all the beloved Céline girls) by Juergen Teller get me freaking excited as well. That’s a very, very precious fashion moment to me. And I really can’t wait to see and get hold of some of these pieces once they hit the stores this summer.

Sportswear is basic, I know. But the burgundy track suit can’t be ignored.

Also, I’ve realised Juergen Teller wore this fur coat to his latest shoot for Pop Magazine.

That. Look. In. The. Middle. I can’t.

Well, that’s all. All good things come to an end, even if we don’t want to end.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Phoebe Philo Forever

December 28, 2017December 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ten years – a decade – means really something in fashion industry. Phoebe Philo’s era at Céline didn’t only change the course of fashion (minimal-slash-arty aesthetic; raw, Juergen Teller-like advertising; presenting pre-collections just before they hit the stores – many other labels follow Philo’s ‘rules’ like a prophet), but the way women approach clothing. Once the Céline woman goes for masculine, XXL coats that continue to sell like hot buns since Philo’s collections in 2010; then, the other time she takes a delicate slip-dress with lace inserts or a clingy, knitted sweater in olive-green. In her feature on Philo’s power, Cathy Horyn stated in the following way: Philo’s clothes were not just simply for women; they were also about women — their distractions, their routines, the way they stuff a bag under an arm or concoct an outfit out of a dress and trousers, their sideways longing for red-lipped glamour, their disdain for basics, their love of uniforms, their wisdom and maturity. Unlike other designers who do ready-to-wear, Phoebe didn’t bother with ‘telling stories’ – she just wanted the clothes to become a woman’s close friend.

For me, her collections were the most anticipated moments during Paris fashion weeks, while the look-books were always like a sweet treat. Whether we’re speaking of Philo’s spring-summer 2013 fur-lined Birkenstock sandals, autumn-winter 2017 green blankets, autumn-winter 2015 white sneakers or spring-summer 2017 mega-big tote bag, it’s undisputable: she is the master of desirable, yet unconventional accessories. My heart bleeds, when I think of all the beautiful things Philo gave us while at helm of the maison. The rumour has it that the designer isn’t planning to lead a label anytime soon. Although that sounds devastating, it makes sense: Phoebe Philo frequently highlighted her urge for ‘slowing down’. Today’s fashion is at a insanely pointless, fast pace. I hope that 2018 will become some kind of ‘breaking’ year for all that.

Below, I’m looking back at some of my favourite Phoebe-at-Céline wonders.

Pre-fall 2010; SS10; pre-fall 2010.

Pre-fall 2015.

Pre-fall 2016.

SS16.

AW10; pre-fall 2011; AW10.

Resort 2016; AW16; resort 2016.

AW11.

Resort 2017.

AW16; SS17 jewellery; SS17.

Resort 2012.

SS16.

Pre-fall 2012.

SS17.

AW12.

Pre-fall 2017; SS17; pre-fall 2017.

SS13; resort 2014; resort 2015.

AW17.

SS18.

AW13.

AW17; pre-fall 2017; AW17.

AW17.

SS14; SS13; SS14.

Resort 2018.

SS14.

AW17.

AW14; AW15; AW14.

SS18.

AW15.

Resort 2018.

SS18.

SS16.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki. Ad campaigns by Jurgen Teller and Tyrone Lebon.

System is the Smartest

November 16, 2015November 16, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Lately, nearly every fashion magazine which can be considered as less ambitious or as a very niche one, pretends to make art out of celebrities. But what about the real stars of fashion? And I am not talking about the models this time. I mean the designers and creatives, who make this industry propel. When I opened the very first page of the newest System Magazine, I felt a relief that Justin Bieber won’t be the unexpected “fashion icon”. Reading the absolutely honest and down-to-earth Raf Simons interview by Cathy Horyn was a pleasure, and simultaneously proved that the people behind System value the quality of texts.

I am still absorbing the 6th issue, but I can distinctly remember that the Giorgio Armani issue was a lovely, one-week reading, filled with fashion insider’s point of views and thoughts. Even though the reading part is the biggest asset of System, I also enjoy their sharp and individualistic creative direction. The editorials photographed by Juergen Teller (just like the 100 page one for the last haute couture collection by Raf Simons for Dior) and portfolios of legendary artists match the unconventional nature of the magazine. System, edited by Alexia Niedzielski, Elizabeth von Guttman, Jonathan Wingfield, Thomas Lenthal and many other contributing writers and creatives takes it to the next level – it’s not just an expensive booklet of advertisements, but valuable literature for those who are truly into fashion. In other words, System is both relevant and smart. And I will keep it for a longer moment on my coffee-table – and eventually leave a graceful space for it in my book-shelf.

Here is a throwback of the previous issues’ essential editorials.