The Ethos. Dries Van Noten AW25

Julian Klausner‘s debut runway collection for Dries Van Noten felt familiar – in a good way. It largely did feel like a Dries collection, maybe except for the tasseled jacket and evening dress near the show’s finale. The meaty, chunky knits, beautifully layered tailoring and omnipresent play with sumptuous textures made this line-up feel like an ode to the founder of the brand – and his very, very loyal clients who went through a spiritual crisis once the designer announced his departure. Klausner isn’t planning to erase the Dries Van Noten ethos, but prolong it. The broad-shouldered coat in transfixing cardinal purple or the stunning, fluid-like dress with a green velvet bow at the neck are the best proves for his great intentions.

ED’s SELECTION:

Dries Van Noten Paneled Metallic Crinkled-leather Sneakers


Dries Van Noten Checked Woven Maxi Dress


Dries Van Noten Double-breasted Snake-print Woven Blazer


Dries Van Noten Pleated Printed Matte-satin Midi Skirt


Dries Van Noten Gold-tone Multi-stone Cuff


Dries Van Noten Faux Shearling Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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New Age. Dries Van Noten AW25

The new age has begun at Dries Van Noten under Julian Klausner‘s creative direction. One good thing: his debut menswear collection doesn’t feel as plain as the studio-designed womenswear we’ve seen back in September.

But his autumn-winter 2025 confusingly feels like a collection that could come from another Antwerp-originating brand: Maison Margiela (seen through John Galliano lens) or Ann Demeulemeester (black coat cinched at waist with thin string-belt and black feathers). The Willy Vanderperre-shot lookbook gives yet another Belgian designer’s distinct vibe: Raf Simons.

I hope that in the proper runway debut come March, Klausner will somehow show us what Dries Van Noten means without Dries. This outing doesn’t say much.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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