Pulpy. Dries Van Noten SS27

I know everybody loved Julian Klausner’s latest effort at Dries Van Noten, but I’m not entirely sold on it. On paper, it looks solid. But on second glance, its pulpiness starts to feel dangerously Prada-ish, or even Marni-ish – specifically the Consuelo Castiglioni era, with a few tinges of Francesco Risso thrown in.

Klausner can’t be a forever A+ student of Papa Dries’s school, and he’s very welcome to step outside that particular comfort zone – one that Dries Van Noten clients clearly adore and can’t seem to get enough of. But somehow, the spring-summer 2027 lady-like turn towards the 1950s didn’t quite click for me. Neither did the extremely layered styling, which often concealed the actual clothes rather than allowing them to speak for themselves.

There’s nothing wrong with Klausner wanting to move on. In fact, he probably should. I’m just not sure this particular detour has found its destination yet.

ED’s SELECTION:


Dries Van Noten Belted Pleated Linen-blend Jacquard Skirt



Dries Van Noten Ripa Giant Egg Printed Satin Coat



Dries Van Noten Ruched Satin Mules



Dries Van Noten Mélange Grain De Poudre Blouse



Dries Van Noten Printed Twill Scarf

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Familiar. Dries Van Noten SS27

There’s a sense of familiarity, reality, and lightness to what Julian Klausner is doing at Dries Van Noten. A devoted student of Papa Dries, he makes the house’s blend of meticulous embroidery and erotically charged, slightly off-kilter – yet never overly weird – elegance feel completely instinctive, almost on auto-pilot. And that’s very much to his advantage: his work should feel like coming home for Dries devotees. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Dries Van Noten Men’s Destin Mixed Leather Retro Sneakers



Dries Van Noten Men’s Striped Viscose-Blend Shirt



Dries Van Nioten Men’s Suede and Leather Duffel Crossbody Bag



Dries Van Noten Men’s Pine Straight-Fit Flocked Denim Jeans



Dries Van Noten Men’s Overdyed Cupro-Cotton Shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Clashes. Dries Van Noten AW26

Julian Klausner’s latest collection for Dries Van Noten explored clashing styles as a means of finding one’s identity – “a moment of self-discovery.” At times, it seemed to be trying to say too much, particularly with the preppy uniforms and pixelated prints. Yet toward the end, the lineup revealed what Klausner does especially well at Dries: a kind of contemporary folklore, a patchwork of sensibilities and influences. These are clothes that roam freely between Paris, the Highlands, and Bhutan – the red mok-like wrap worn around a school jacket was a striking blend of cultures.

Dries has long been a master of unexpected combinations, and Julian proves himself an A+ student, treating his affection for eclecticism in an assemblage-like manner (Władysław Hasior’s work comes to my mind). Worth noting was a pair of collegiate jackets stitched seemingly at random with embroidered ribbons, in the way a young girl might scribble across her jeans. There’s something equally profound and joyfully carefree about the designer’s approach to personal style.

ED’s SELECTION:


Dries Van Noten Satin Wedge Sandals



Dries Van Noten Draped Polka-dot Satin-jacquard Blouse



Dries Van Noten Sequin And Bead-embellished Satin Clutch



Dries Van Noten Embossed Crepe Blazer



Dries Van Noten Gathered Polka-dot Satin-jacquard Shorts



Dries Van Noten Leather-trimmed Suede Sneakers

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Coming Of Age. Dries Van Noten AW26

Julian Klausner delivered his strongest solo outing at Dries Van Noten to date. The autumn–winter 2026 menswear collection radiates the youthful spirit of student days, when anything seems possible: drifting from one party to the next, cramming for exams at the last minute, and handing in papers a day past the deadline. The naturally cool spontaneity of a vintage-inspired striped sweater paired with a kilt, a hilariously kooky chullo-like beanie, and lace-ups with thick socks peeking out is intoxicatingly inspiring. So, too, is the campus-inflected layering: oversized capes worn over prim, uniform-like tailoring and neatly knotted neckties.

Yet this was not a collection about preppiness. I found it beautifully folkloric instead. Nordic knitwear patterns clashed with subtly faded, sensational Polaroid-like florals on satin trousers and raincoats. These are life-affirming clothes – and styling cues – that make you feel young again, no face-lift required.

ED’s SELECTION:


Dries Van Noten Double-breasted Embellished Striped Wool And Linen-blend Coat



Dries Van Noten Nylon and Leather Low-Top Sneakers



Dries Van Noteb Pine Straight-Fit Flocked Denim Jeans


Dries Van Noten Hen Oversized Graphic T-Shirt



Dries Van Noten Velen Embellished Jacket



Dries Van Noten Rock The Myrrh Eau de Parfum

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Psychedelic Chic. Dries Van Noten SS26

The Dries Van Noten collection is one I suspect I’ll appreciate more once it arrives in stores. Julian Klausner’s second outing for Papa’s brand was overall good, but somewhat… unresolved. He aimed to make the line-up feel joyful, easy, and optimistic – and he succeeded in that regard. To achieve it, he turned to surfing as his theme. “Being around surfers is always a good time,” the designer mused. A slouchy men’s jacket paired with red floral bermudas channeled a surf-chic spirit, as did the psychedelic prints – just as brilliant as those from Dries’ archives. And yet, despite the abundance of looks and myriad styling options, the collection still left me wanting something more.

ED’s SELECTION:

Dries Van Noten Gathered Satin-jersey Maxi Skirt


Dries Van Noten Cropped Crepe Blazer



Dries Van Noten Belted Intarsia Wool-blend Cardigan


Dries Van Noten Leather-trimmed Shell Sneakers

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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