Frenchie. Paco Rabanne AW18

March 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

The term ‘Parisian chic’ is tremendously polluted in today’s fashion. Yet still, Julien Dossena somehow makes it authentic. Not going too heavy on the brand’s signature chain-mail this time around, the designer of Paco Rabanne made Breton stripes look, yes, relevant. There was a trench coat. There was a beige turtleneck. There was a pair of straight blue jeans. While those might be basics, I bet Paco Rabanne will finally catch its customer the next season with these extremely simple, but honestly rare to find pieces. Of course, not everything about the autumn-winter 2018 collection was about Frenchie essentials. The eveningwear is incredibly good, with all the plastic sequins and metallics.

Dossena finds the proper balance.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Night Dressing. Paco Rabanne SS18

December 3, 2017December 3, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sometimes, you fall in love with a collection since the very first moment you’ve seen it. But sometimes, you need some time to get the point behind it. This is what I felt with Julien Dossena‘s Paco Rabanne spring-summer 2018 fashion show. It’s difficult to revive the most ‘contemporary’ brand of 20th century in 21th century, especially in 2017, where defining anything is quite a struggle. However, Dossena understands well what a today’s woman wants and enjoys in fashion – just like Paco did in the 60s. “It was sort of disco boogie-nights,” Julien said backstage of his show, “but then we cleaned it up. I wanted something a little over the top, but precise and refined.” The brand’s cult chain-mail was intriguingly mixed with paisley print, pastel-pink transparency and athleisure-fit, elastic fabrics. But all that very Parisian glow and this chic ‘party’ attitude is what looks like a great way for dressing to celebrate the upcoming festive season. Whether you style it Space Age, Barbarella-mod or more Françoise Hardy, the New Year’s Eve in Paco might be it.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Future Sex. Paco Rabanne SS17

October 2, 2016October 2, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Syntethic-white neck-pieces suggest an astronaut gear rather than a sexy French look. But Julien Dossena isn’t frightened to put FUTURE SEX on one of his spring-summer 2017 t-shirts for Paco Rabanne. Obsessed with sci-fi since his childhood, the designer consistently links out-of-this-world modernity with strange sex-appeal. In fact, two things Rabanne fused the best in the past. Today’s creative director smoothly draws inspirations from the brand’s archives, re-working iconic chainmail from the 60s into a relevant, light-weighted material for dresses, skirts and pants. But Dossena doesn’t rely on Paco’s signature only, as he’s comfortable with introducing his own, alien-lover tastes to the house codes. Hints of fuchsia peeked out from underneath the white lace dresses in form of chic tights; a black, leather mini-dress reminded us of Julien’s respect for timeless classics. Oh, and the studded flares: would Françoise Hardy take a pair of those in 2016? I know, a fantasy fashion collaboration. Still, highly anticipated.

Calm Fire. Paco Rabanne AW16

March 5, 2016March 5, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julien Dossena revamped Paco Rabanne into a contemporary brand, which does spark desire. And if talking of sparks, the collection had one, or two – literally, leather patches of flames were embroidered on midi skirts and satin tops, looking hot and untamed. But the Rabanne women has a much gentler side, too, and you could easily guess that thanks to floral tapestry jackets and dresses. The fur-lined reverse-coat in beige looked cosmic with the outer-space white boots and the minimal cool white-tanktop-and-black-pants had an androgynous, yet appealing energy about it. Although Dossena’s collections remind me of Helmut Lang-era rather than Paco Rabanne’s times, one thing’s sure – the creative director attempts (with a large success) to envision the wardrobe of a modern-day woman, just like Rabanne did back in the days.

Modern Softness. Paco Rabanne SS16

October 5, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julien Dossena looked at the heritage of Paco Rabanne from a totally different side this season. It rather feels more him, than Rabanne. The collection is designed for a modern girl – however, it’s much more feminine than the built-up looks we’ve seen last season. The fresh, summer outing was all about the high-tech sportiness with a sense of casual sexiness. Baby doll dresses walked alongside motocross-influenced leathers; the graphical prints on tank-tops had the Native American feeling about them. Definitely, Julien introduced a more slouchy festival attitude to the brand, rather than continuing Rabanne’s futuristic strictness and rawness. The textiles are softer in comparison to the signature Paco chain-dresses and the woman reflecting the brand changed.