Mud Show. Balenciaga SS23

When Balenciaga invited its guests to a “mud show“, they meant it literally. There were tons of mud on the spring-summer 2023 runway, piled up at the sides of the stadium space, and dug out like bomb craters in the center, staged by the Spanish artist Santiago Sierra. The raw odeur of decomposition, a custom-made scent by Sissel Tolaas, blasted in the face. Demna did it yet again: he shook up the fashion industry like no one else, reminding about rising inequality, the return of fascism, wars happening all over the globe, and the very real threat of nuclear war. Kanye West opened the show in a tactical jacket and leather pants with reinforced knees, military garb topped off with a baseball cap and a logo mouthguard. The ragtag band that followed was rough around the edges to say the least, their faces beat-up and their clothes treated to look old and beat-up too (requiring a “couple of days” more than making pristine luxury, Demna said). Some carried bags made from stuffed animals that looked like they’d been through a war. When the 75 models made their circuit on the wet track, dirt splashed their bare ankles and soaked their hems, the 3-D printed Dutch clogs being no match for the mud. Demna has had his own experience of war – he fled Georgia with his family when he was a young boy of 10. Being gay compounded his struggles. “I’ve felt like I’ve been punched in my face for being who I am,” he said, but “you have to stand up and continue walking, kind of like this crusade of discovering who you are and defending that.” He called this a “very me show.” It was heavy on grafitti’d hoodies and ravaged jeans, but there was also evening wear, in clingy T-shirt jersey or glamorous pleats. These were survivors against the odds, a point Demna made by sending out men clutching baby carriers propped with eerily lifelike dolls. “Naturally I’m an optimist, but I cannot be very optimistic right now,” he said. “I think this show actually expresses that very much – the music, the set, it spoke about the moment in which we live.” To finish, Demna sent out a dress made from cut-up parts of black Balenciaga Lariat bags, a make-do-and-mend masterpiece that also pointed up our nasty overconsumption habits. Remember, he sent every last piece through the mud, a “sacrilege” by luxury standards. Using fashion to comment on the crises that plague us is a tricky business. Of course Demna wants us to shop, and of course his bosses do, too. But when it comes time to spend, my money’s on the guy who looks around and is terrified, not the sleepwalkers.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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NET-A-PORTER Limited

Not Art, Not Politics, Not Fashion. Yeezy AW16

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Can somebody explain me why the very beginning of ‪#‎NYFW‬ feels like a place where the fashion industry should not belong to in even a tiniest bit? Why the season of ‪AW16‬ starts with a “performance” which doesn’t convey any message or at least any styling tips (no, a Hollister-like parka, a pair of thermal leggings and Wallmart boots are more of “my daily outfit for a walk with my dog” than a “street-style moment” look)? Yes, you can say that the ‪‎Yeezy Season 3‬ show is touching the migration problems that currently paralyse Europe and the USA struggles with understanding diversity and all-skin-colour equality. But the message ‪Kanye West‬ tries to bring on doesn’t move my heart, on topics of politics, art nor fashion – and when I think that the whole event was focused on commerce, commerce and once more, COMMERCE of some Nike-shaming Yeezy-something trainers, it just makes me feel absolutely ignorant about it. Moreover, how can a designer who shames women so deliberately (yes, I read Dazed & Confused often and I’m in tune of all Kanye rants on Twitter, sadly) is even allowed to design anything for WOMEN? Oh, sorry, I used the wrong word. “Design” is surely not the thing West attempts to do – in this case, it’s just about ripping off a bit of Alexander Wang there, Vetements there and colouring it all in Haider Ackermann shades. And what saddens me the most is the fact that people are eager to buy this, and love this.

Dear fashion, if you’re there – leave this fashion-visionnaire-wannabe and Kimye clan alone. Make space for new talents. Let the mass know that fashion is not about sweatpants and beige-pencil skirts. ENOUGH is ENOUGH.

Biarritz: SUPER

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RETROSUPERFUTURE or shortly SUPER, is a fresh eyewear label from France known for it’s vintage styled shades and amazing printing of inside part in their frames! When I saw them yesterday in INTHEMIDDLE in Biarritz, I fell in love with all of them. From classic black sunglasses to white ones with marble inside part, there is a huge selection from which we can choose.
All of them are of course hand made in Italy and are worn by Kanye West and Pharrell Williams. And what most excited me about them, were… The printed boxes in which these sunglasses are kept!

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Tisci and Friends

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I think Riccardo Tisci really got a rotweiller in his ass (in a good way of course)! Tisci is the creative director of Givenchy and is one of the most influencial menswear and womenswear designer from Paris. He is known for prints (Rottweiler, flowers, Madonna, Jesus, etc.) and street inspired clothing. And it’s not the end. He had his two whole interviews and editorials in Self Service and GQ (the one I’m showing is from Self Service), will design ballerina costumes for Bolero in one of the most known Parisian opera, makes friends with Kanye West and Jay-Z and if like it wasn’t enough, he created amazing scene costumes for Rihanna’s Diamond Tour. Crazy, isn’t it?

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In the Self Service editorial Tisci is in his Atelier Givenchy “house” in Paris (it’s on Avenue George V, the building is next to Balenciaga boutique) siting on black sofa with his favourite model Joan Smalls and his friends from the runways. Of course every one wears pre-fall 2013 collection. And here I’ve got some backsatge pics from recent Givenchy show- full of grunge, romantic vibes, prints and Givenchy spirit. I personally loved the collection! It is the real Parisienne chic!

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