A Gift. Tomo Koizumi SS20

New York fashion week is in full swing. Tomo Koizumi, Marc Jacobs and Katie Grand’s protégé, had Ariel Nicholson do a theatrical performance in his new season ruffled Japanese polyester organza creations at Marc’s Madison Avenue flagship. The Japanese designer, who already amazed everyone with his work last season, explained his spring-summer 2020 process as the following: “I tried to make more 3D patterns with ruffles – it’s kind of like a boxy shape, because I wanted to make something like a gift box.” When he was sketching the designs for the garments, the designer drew inspiration from his own culture – using Lolita fashion as a primary reference, he also crafted the shapes of the dresses based on Japanese robotic cartoons, which he grew up watching. The looks – if you can even call them like this – really had something of gift wrapping, bold and knowing no borders of ‘too excessive’. Tomo doesn’t want to be commercial, and his costumes are for the most daring ones. You can hate it or love it, but this sort or joyous non-chalance is not only growingly rare in New York, but across all the fashion capitals.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Organza Fantasy. Tomo Koizumi AW19

When you become a Marc Jacobs protegé, are allowed to present your collection in his Madison Avenue store, get Katie Grand as a stylist, Pat McGrath for the make-up, and Gwendoline Christie, Karen Elson, Rowan Blanchard and Bella Hadid walk your debut show, be sure you will be on everybody’s lips for the rest of New York fashion week. But, all this very helpful support is just the cherry on the cake, because Tomo Koizumi‘s fashion is a star in itself. Although I would be cautious with calling Koizumi’s autumn-winter 2019 a fantasy of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino heights, this outing really was a fantasy that is just what New York needs. In the crowd of post-Philo aesthetic and too-edgy styling, Tomo’s polyester organza pieces, kept in all the shades of rainbow, are a true fairy-tale. Capes, ball-skirts, gowns of different lengths – all looking like a candy-sweet armour. Where will this major debut take Koizumi and his distinct style? Time will show. But it’s worth mentioning that Jacobs should be praised for helping out a new talent with his great platform. Hope to see more of initiatives like this in the upcoming seasons.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

New Girl in The Hood. AV Robertson AW16


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Do you remember those exquisite, playful embroideries from Marc Jacobs’ spring summer 2016 collection? They were designed by his design assistant, Amie Robertson, whose speciality is embroidery. The blond designer from the Northern part of England has stormed the first day of London Fashion week, supported by the New York-based designer and Katie Grand, the editor-in-chief of Love Magazine. Although she’s a pretty new girl in London’s fashion week schedule, her debutant fashion show was walked by such supers as Edie Campbell, Molly Bair and Anna Cleveland – moreover, seeing her rare talent in a full line-up showed how skillful she is in sequins and artisanal  craft. The autumn-winter 2016 collection is based on multi-coloured, pin-stripe pencil skirts, tops and leg-exposing dresses. Noting, that all of that is ornamented with delicate embellishments, which resemble flowers. Hand-made, sequin flowers, which are time-consuming in their process, but look so modern on these wearable silhouettes. Surely, the A.V. Robertson girl will make an entrance in one of these masterpieces.

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