Soft Nomads. Missoni AW18

February 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Backstage of the show, Angela Missoni explained that “this is Missoni’s 65th anniversary; I thought, ‘Let’s start celebrating.’” Not only was a sense of laid-back felt all over the collection, that contained of both womenswear and menswear. It was a delightful, effortless play with the brand’s heritage knitwear. The Missoni nomads had something of Scottish, African, Italian and Jamaican reminiscence. But the nonchalantly tied shawls around the neck and the heavily Jean-Michel Basquiat inspired colour palette was a reference to 1970s New York, as the season’s moodboard suggested. Angela’s recent ways at Missoni make the family label even more relevant that ever, with its relaxed styling and remarkable ad campaigns lensed by Harley Weir. Not forgetting about the model diversity present in the autumn-winter 2018 show, which is something to be learnt by other Milan designers.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Knitted Needs. Pringle of Scotland AW17

February 21, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Fran Stringer, the creative director of Pringle of Scotland, nails it with every season. The designer has found the perfect balance between the brand’s knit legacy and the wardrobe of a contemporary woman, through incorporating top-notch craftsmanship and timeless silhouettes. Her pre-fall collection was a statement about long, knitted dresses, while for autumn-winter 2017 she continues to experiment with this signature. First looks were the flowing, total-black ensembles, while the last (worn by Adwoa Aboah, above) went crazy floral. If you’re already thinking about buying this ready-to-flatter investment piece – Pringle is the go-to brand.

Feather-Light. Ryan Roche SS17

September 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ryan Roche is New York’s go-to designer in case of anything connected to timeless, luxurious knitwear. Throughout the few last seasons, she introduced us to the most fleecy, cashmere cardigans and sweaters ever. Also, she’s the modern-day queen of beige – in fact, a majority of her looks are kept in different shades of this warm, underrated colour. Yes, that sounds like a strong foundation for a brand to stay in its comfort zone. But Roche won’t rest on her laurels anytime soon.

Spring-summer 2017 was Ryan’s first runway show, and that let her present a visual experience for he guests. Julian MacKay, a soloist with the Mikhailovsky ballet, travelled from St. Petersburg to stage a dancing performance among the designers’ models dressed in knitted skirts and evening wear. The lightness of those knits is comparable to MacKay’s grace. The clothes were so different comparing to the last seasons, and that felt really exciting about Roche’s outing. Margiela-like, leg-of-mutton sleeves came with white blazers; romantic lace appeared in slip-tops and dreamy, maxi dresses. Cashmere scarves and shawls were worn the Marlene Dietrich way – so soigné! With the help of a new Italian factory, Ryan created her version of a suit – high-waisted trousers cinched at the waist and a semi-cardigan with light knit cables. Seeing Roche on new ground is one of my favourite moments of this New York Fashion Week so far.

Autumn Dibs from A Détacher

September 3, 2016September 3, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I’m not suggesting that this look from A Détacher‘s brilliant autumn-winter 2016 show is perfectly fit for yak pastures. But it looks so, so autumnal. It says “hello October forest walks,” or “November evenings are welcome” to me. First, have a glance at the layering. A beige, V-cut sweater under a brown blazer seems easy – but looking down, we’ve got those knitted pants with a buttoned, cardigan-like trompe l’oeil idea. Second, the way Mona Kowalska considers wearing a wool beanie (or rather two wool beanies). She’s like your mum – she wants to keep you extra warm this season, so you want catch a cold.

Xiao Li of The Marshmallows!

July 13, 2013July 13, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Xiao Li, a Chinese designer of RCA FASHION London is one of the most exciting designer of the year! Her amazing, over large costumes in a marshmalow colour palet are very precised and made in with high technology. Plump pastel silicone garments moulded from knitwear feature in this collection by Royal College of Art graduate Xiao Li. And this knitwear doesn’t look like a simple now, made by a grandma. It’s, I would say, looking like if it was blew up or something.
“Traditional knitwear is more soft and shapeless,” Li told Dezeen. “I wanted to find out a new way to present knitwear and was influenced by Modern architecture and 60s Balenciaga.”
It all sounds pretty sophisticated, but these mind blowing fabrics are very wearable and easy. “I wanted to make sure my collection is innovative but still wearable,” she said. And my fav look is the one with the pink dress with organza bottom- looks stunning. And the boots… Plastic rules!