It’s Diversity. Koché SS19

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Christelle Kocher, just like Marine Serre, likes to keep her fashion one-of-a-kind, but suited for real life. With the designer’s signature streetwear aesthetic, Koché is the brand that makes sweatpants and hoodies in the most couture way you can imagine – think meticulous embroideries and extraordinary fabric clashes. Kocher’s spring-summer 2019 instantly reminded me of Jean Paul Gaultier’s 1994 collection, so the at-the-time controversial Les Tatouages. Just like in Gaultier’s ‘startling vision of cross-cultural harmony‘, Christelle mixed and fused cultures and ethnicities in her collection, creating a wearable ode to style diversity. There were some very literal references to Jean Paul’s collection (hopefully credited), like the tattoo motif on transparent tops. Also, I noticed some old, good Yves Saint Laurent chic here too – see the le smoking look, styled with a red flower necklace. But mostly, the collection was quintessentially Koché – easy in approach and comfortable.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Gold. Koché AW18

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Christelle Kocher‘s autumn-winter 2018 collection felt the most mature up to date for the Paris-based label. It seems that Koché is slowly moving away from its street sensibility and targets a grown up customer with its brand new smokings, gold-pleated t-shirt-slash-dresses and extremely compelling eveningwear. Still, for those who don’t fully appreciate Koché’s new path, Christelle presented a number of camo-print blousons, jackets and sweatpants – eventually, that was the least exciting part of the collection. My heart beats faster for those lilac pieces, whether we’re speaking of the metallic, Helmut Lang-inspired pants or distorted knits.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.