Berlin, When It’s Cold

Berlin, when it’s cold? I say: yes. The city is a perfect destination for weekend visiting in any season. So, even when it’s winter and the temperature drops below zero, you’re more than welcome to visit the Turkish market in Kreuzberg, discover new coffee spots (or rather, new to you, but well known for the locals) or simply, go to a museum. Scroll on!

AnneliesGörlitzer Str. 68

The quintessence of a Berliner brunch spot – raw, yet cozy interior, delicious pastries, perfect lighting.

Turkish MarketMaybachufer

Fresh pomegranates, mangos, coriander and lemons in February? Those market stalls got you covered.

Berggruen MuseumSchloßstraße 1

The Berggruen Museum is a collection of modern art classics, which the collector and dealer Heinz Berggruen, in a “gesture of reconciliation”, gave to his native city. The most notable artists on display include Pablo Picasso (some of the rarest works out there), Alberto Giacometti, Georges Braque, Paul Klee and Henri Matisse. A true, visual feast.

Rosa WolfEberswalder Str. 32

Rosa Wolf is a shop filled with independent magazines, carefully selected from all over the world. Whether you’re looking for reading material about fashion, art, culture, travel, architecture or design, you will find it at their place in Prenzlauer Berg.

The Store x Soho House Berlin / Torstraße 1

An ever-changing space created to inspire, create, work and enjoy – and most of all, to shake-up the stereotype of how a fashion retail place should look like. Located in the Soho Haus Berlin hotel, The Store makes you feel like at home, with its beautifully curated furniture (from chic Pierre Jeanneret seats to Mathieu Matégot heart shaped-patio set) and a connoisseur-level book selection, coming straight from London’s cult Idea Books. Moreover, The Store is Berlin‘s fashion destination, with its heaving hangers of Vetements, The Row, Aries, Calvin Klein, Wales Bonner and others.

The Potsdammer Straße ‘trio’:

Andreas Murkudis / Potsdammer Straße 81

Fiona Bennett / Potsdammer Straße 81-83

Acne Studios / Potsdammer Straße 87

SasayaLychener Str. 50

Sasaya is the best Japanese restaurant in Berlin. It’s just so pure in taste, and so Japanese in everything, from the simple interior to the way the asparagus tempura is served on ceramics plates (which are sold together with delightful pottery and rare sake next to the restaurant space). Sasaya doesn’t only serve sushi – which is perfect – but as well other traditional dishes and tastes like the tsukemono (pickled vegetables), the takana (fried vegetables), dashi broth or the kukiwakame (seaweed). The gyoza stick is a great addition to your portion of maki and nigiri, while green tea cake with matcha macchiato is an ideal desert (at least for me!).

Superbazaro / Mulackstraße 1

Italian (and not only) gourmet food and wines with selected, chic kitchenware. By Mitte’s favourite Mädchenitalianer restaurant nearby, which serves some delightful, home-made Italian cusine.

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Markthalle IX

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That’s Berlin – you go down the street and suddenly find a place you never want to leave. Exactly this happened to us when we came across Markthalle IX in the Kreuzberg district. As the name suggests, it’s a ‘market hall’. But not that usual. Actually, it contains dozens of local butcheries, stalls with bio-vegetables and pop-ups of Berlin’s trending restaurants. There are freshly cut flowers and wild oysters; there’s salami in every possible size and taste and even Italian patisserie. The best part – you can try everything. And eat one of the best lunches in Berlin, if you find an empty bench! I tell you, this place is worth a visit.

Eisenbahnstraße 42/43 / Berlin

Berlin for a Day

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Even though our last day trip to Berlin occurred at the time of the Reformation Day, and we were absolutely unaware of the fact all stores are closed during that national holiday, the German capital proved once again that it’s incredible even on calmer, lazier days. First, by a total co-incidence, we’ve stepped into Open Air Mitte, a yard that functions as an open air cinema: it shows anything from classic films to live music performances. But also, it’s Berlin’s top show-off spot for graffiti artists – the street art here is unbelievable! Just like the local pubs, bars and guerilla stores. Later, we strolled around the Museum Island, which is even more spectacular with its monumental architecture when there’s not even one tourist around.

At least, some restaurants were open that day, and Kreuzberg saved us in the evening with its classic. Zola is best known in Berlin for serving Neapolitan style pizza. With its massive, wood-fired oven, the place (crowded even on holidays) has ranked up high with its undemanding atmosphere and very, very well made pizza in the neighborhood. Well, no wonder why.

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Spindler

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On a busy Monday evening like this, there’s a certain place I  wish I could go to for dinner. It’s Spindler, Kreuzberg’s beloved brasserie. Located in a historic building beside a river shore, the restaurant’s rooms (which actually are over 100 years old) were reconstructed by Karolina Preis and revamped with handcrafted furniture, modern art and selected antiques. Spindler’s ever-changing menu offers seasonal treats as well as classics: Haveländer pork belly, king oyster mushrooms, cod with couscous or the Sirloin steak. Whether you’re here for a meal with friends or a weekend brunch in the sun-drenched garden, I tell you: this place won’t disapoint.

Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42/43 / Berlin

Photos by Edward Kanarecki

Concierge Coffee in Berlin

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Concierge Coffee, Benjamin Pates’s and Namy Nosratifard’s baby, is there for you to serve the best flat white in entire Kreuzberg, just along the canal. Fresh pastries and house juices are here, too, nicely displayed on the counter (with some quite tongue-in-cheek taxidermy pets in the front). But it isn’t only coffee that attracts Berliners to Concierge, Kreuzberg’s best kept secret. It’s the atmosphere of this low-key spot that makes it so undeniably cool. The coffee bar is hidden away in an old gatekeepers room, while the beverages are served through a small window in the back. Sit with the locals on matching the cups, blue stools, and enjoy the street view!

Paul-Lincke-Ufer 39-40 / Berlin

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Cocolo Ramen X-Berg

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Cocolo Ramen X-Berg is said to have the best ramen in Berlin. I guess the huge queues for a seat are the best evidence for that. I ate the Wantan ramen with shrimp wontons and it was the actual 7th wonder happening in my mouth. Ramen often tends to be too fatty, but this one was just perfect for me – light, but with its recognizable essence. Gyoza dumplings are also worth a try. The industrial interior with long, wooden tables is as charming as the outdoors space. Sitting there on a sunny day and observing the diverse street life of Kreuzberg is something I can do everyday! While sipping Cocolo’s home-made, signature lemonade, of course.

Paul-Lincke-Ufer 39-40 / Berlin

Photographs by Edward Kanarecki.

Kreuzberg Market

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That’s not your average market. This one specific market, located along the Spree river, takes place every Tuesday and Friday and booms with the unbelievable diversity of Berlin‘s Kreuzberg district. Cultures and ethnicities clash on the stalls in form of vegetables, jewellery and even oriental bread types. The people here are so unbelievably beautiful. Sellers talk, laugh and are absolutely open for any kind of bargaining. The market-goers buy and pack everything neatly into their stylish baskets. It’s chaotic, but in a very organic way. 

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

November in Berlin

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Berlin always charges me up with creativity. That’s why, I can honestly recommend a trip to this diverse and extraordinary city to anyone who wants to spend his or her time in a, as they say, hype way. Here is my November mini-guide to the city’s most interesting shops and restaurants.

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ORA – Kreuzberg –  A former pharmacy is situated on the peaceful Oranienplatz, which one day became the most beautiful restaurant of the German capital – ORA. With the original cabinets de curiosities, wooden shelves and marble counters from the past, the restaurant serves lovely carrotscakes and casual, yet nutritious lunches. The romantic interior makes this restaurant not only a place to “EAT AT”, but also to “BE IN”.

Oranienplatz 14

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Voo Store – Kreuzberg – Voo is a concept store hidden in a former locksmith shop patio with perfectly selected clothes (Marques Almeida, A.P.C., Our Legacy, Gosha Rubchinskiy pack), awesome shoes (Raf Simons X Adidas rules) and lovely stationery (the notebooks! the pottery!). Here, you can relax and read niche magazines while drinking drip coffee from their Companion Coffee place.

Oranienstraße 24

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Kreuzberg wouldn’t be such a bold and colourful district without its well supplied flower-shops.

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Fête De La BoutiqueMitte – Owners Feli and Teresa have created a cozy atmosphere in their place. Self-designed contemporary furniture accompanies niche French, German and Scandinavian brands like Bruuns Bazaar, American Retro or Minimum. From fashion to home decor to jewelry and books, Fete De La Boutique makes you feel nearly like at home.

Mulackstraße  11

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Unico Mitte – Unico selects its jewellery straight from the studios of the most talented and contemporary designers from Buneos Aires. Their small, eclectic space located in the heart of Mitte is a place where a perfect Christmas gift can be found.

Alte Schönhauser Straße 50

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Qua PheMitte – Qua Phe is leading the Asian cuisine game in Berlin, and specifically the Vietnamese one. Great selection of finger food from Vietnam like banh bao or bahn gio is here, and you can eat it in a off-duty atmosphere of wooden tables, Asian stools and raw, metallic elements. Qua Phe is also known as a Vietnamese coffee shop – if you are visiting this place, don’t forget to taste their coffee drips with one of their signature desserts, ginger moshi! This gluey, sweet treat reminds me of toffee, but not quite…

Max-Beer Straße 37

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Ora Berlin

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Kreuzberg is becoming Berlin‘s most creative district. A former pharmacy is situated on the peaceful Oranienplatz, which one day became the most beautiful restaurant of the German capital – ORA. With the original cabinets de curiosities, wooden shelves and marble counters from the past, the restaurant serves refreshing summer cuisine (unfortunately we didn’t have any time left to try it out) and delicious coffee with home-made apfelstrüdel. However, the atmospheric and truly romantic interior makes this restaurant not only a place to “EAT”, but also to “BE”. And definitely I am going to try out their signature gazpacho next time.

Oranienplatz 14 / Berlin

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