Lemaire

Something’s going on at Lemaire. It seems that the designer marriage, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran, let some colour to their beautifully minimal, yet intimate, label. Curcuma, lemon, mustard, lilac – this is the bright, warm palette offered for autumn-winter 2018. But Lemaire wouldn’t be Lemaire without its cool sobriety. Dark brown jackets were styled with ecru skirts or black satin shirts. Loosely fitted, multi-segmented coats in dove grey or indigo made you think of a cold breeze rather than those lovely, autumn days. The volumes were as well different than usual – everything’s over-sized, very masculine. People say that Lemaire can become the new Céline. I disagree – I think that Lemaire is authentic, not trying to look like Phoebe Philo’s era fashion. It’s just the way it is, true to the designers’ style.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran, season after season, find a way to make their truly timeless clothes feel exciting. Maybe this season it’s all thanks to the pink turtleneck the models wore under russet-brown cardigans and coats? That was a glimpse of colour that doesn’t affiliate with Lemaire, but surprisingly looked great. The brand is known for its sense (and love) for artistry. A designers’ friend contributed the muted paisley and feather-overlay marble prints used in outerwear, shirting, mohair knits and pants. Of course, for more classical Lemaire devotees, there are the signature, relaxed fits and silhouettes in ecru, black or grey (can I ask for that loosely fitted suit, please?). As always, Lemaire wins my heart.