Bordallo Pinheiro Garden

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It’s a small garden, or rather a well-hidden oasis in the heart of Lisbon, where the amazing giant porcelain creations of the 19th-century artist Rafael Bordallo Pinheiro bask in the sun. Scattered amongst the trees, bushes and live peacocks, you will be surprised to find the oversized snakes, lizards, bees, frogs, lobsters, mushrooms and cats all over the jardin. Honestly, I was quite shocked that nobody really knows about the existence of this place (I’m more than grateful to this Purple Travel post that I’ve found few weeks ago!). At least, you can walk around the garden all alone, in silence. It was the last point of my spring holidays, but one of the most magical.

Campo Grande 245 / Lisbon

Claus Porto

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The Chiado district of Lisbon is a treasure chest of the best goods coming from all over Portugal. At the roots of Claus Porto are its German founders and a beautiful, historic city of Porto. The label built its name on hand-crafted soaps infused with fine fragrances, which draw on ingredients from the country’s rich and lush countryside. These products are imbued with an artisan’s heart and soul, and are wrapped by hand in packaging illustrated with retro-inspired and vintage graphic designs, which give a sense of being transported to the glamourous decadence of Belle Époque Europe. Not only soaps tempt you at Claus Porto, but as well creams and perfumes. Still, it’s the signature soap that everyone has to bring back home, whether you’re deciding between Classico, Deco, Agua de Colonia or Musgo Real.

Rua da Misericórdia 135 / Lisbon

Eating in Lisbon

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Lisbon is not only great art, mind-blowing architecture and stylish concept stores. It’s also all about food! And really good food, I should admit. And no, the don’t only eat baskets of freshly picked clementines here (as pictured above) – even though a fresh juice made of them is an actual seventh wonder. Here’s my short guide around some of my favourite eating spots and dinner places in the Portuguese capital.

If you’re planning your dinner at Cervejaria Ramiro, read carefully the following: beware of the queue! No reservations, which is usual for the best restaurants in Lisbon. But before you induldge yourself in all those spider crabs, razor clams, tiger prawns and goose barnacles, you’ve got to wait for about half to one hour outside. No worries – they serve beer for the patient ones. And the waiting is really worth it.

Av. Almirante Reis N.1

After an exhausting excursion to Alfama’s most important churches and a few hours of walking down and up the hilly streets, Pois Café is the right place to take a break. The interior is an eclectic mix of brick, vintage furniture and local artists’ paintings. Food is simple, but tasty – take the plate with mozzarella bufala or the passion fruit cheesecake. A fast brunch / lunch in an intriguing spot.

R. de São João da Praça 93-95

A Chevicheria is Lisbon’s hottest dining place. The huge octopus hanging above the bar tempts to enter and try Kiko Martins’ signature seafood menu. Whether it’s a tuna ceviche with radish or St. Jacob’s mussels, you won’t be dissapointed with the restaurant, that’s for sure. Again, no reservations, possibility of waiting in a queue. But the locals know what’s good!

Rua Dom Pedro V129

Morgadinha de Alfama is not a busy, fancy kind of place, but it has one of the most romantic patios in town. And delightful tapas! It’s especially refreshing when the temperature rises and you can hide hear from the scorching sun.

Beco do Alfurja 2

Everybody heard of Time Out Market in Lisbon. You can eat anything here, from the best pata negra ham and fried squids to soaps in the most stylish packages at A Vida Portuguesa corner. The food here is good, true, but the prices are slightly too high. Also, don’t expect Berlin’s market coziness – Time Out is much more commercialised. But the flower shop located inside is a total must visit – even if you can’t buy a bouquet due to approaching airplane travel. Just beautiful.

Av. 24 de Julho 49

In case of traditional Portuguese patisseries, Padaria e Pastelarias Panificação R. Sao Roque is unrivalled. Try tapas served in a more contemporary manner at Tapisco. I hope that the next time I’m in Lisbon, I will discover equally delicious places. Any recommendations, maybe?

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

República das Flores

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Have you ever wondered what it’s like to enter a cabinet de curiosités? Well, entering República das Flores might be just the experience you’ve always been dreaming of. It’s a magical store that’s located in a Pombaline house from the beginning of the 19th century in Lisbon’s Chiado district. What to see and love in here? Perfumed paper, cushions, soaps and bath products, Bordalo Pinheiro china, fresh flowers, linen table clothes from Porto, vintage garments, jewellery from remote destinations, Alentejo oil and wine, antique objects from India and Morocco… in fact, you can’t go out with empty hands.

Rua Alecrim 99 / Lisbon

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.