Lisbon Guide

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It was my second time in Lisbon (I’ve been there in April as well – see all the posts on it here), but I still feel like I need a separate month to discover this city fully. Why? The number of tiny stores with well-curated, limited edition goods (from notebooks to babouche slippers) is unbelievable here, and it really needs time to get to know all of them! Just like with various concept stores, boutiques and outlets…

Below are the five spots I found intriguing. But I know there are more! So if you want to start with something, scroll down.

I adore places like Artes & Letras Atelier, because I’m a huge devotee of print. This small store works as well as a studio, where all the notebooks, pamphlets, postcards, letters and illustrations are made. Bought a beautiful, hand-sewn notebook here and I can’t let myself use it – it’s too precious.

Rua dos Poiais de São Bento 90

Designer Ana Costa has created the brand +351 which stands for the Portuguese dialing code. Ana’s creative process is inspired by her lifestyle, which is connected with the city of Lisbon and it’s proximity with the ocean. Influenced by her surroundings, and her surfing passion, Ana delivers clothing with an attitude, but in a relaxed day-to-day style. Once visiting their flagship boutique, take a look at all the striped tops!

Rua Poiais de S. Bento 18

Embaixada is located in Ribeiro da Cunha Palace, one of the most iconic building in the trendy neighbourhood of Príncipe Real. This XIX century new-Arabian Palace was turned into an innovative shopping gallery that hosts a series of national brands and artists focused on Portuguese design, craftsmanship, fashion, gastronomy and culture. The result is a meeting point of people and experiences, blending preservation of the architectural heritage with the newest that Portugal has to offer.

Praça do Príncipe Real 26 

Lisbon is one of the most diverse cities in the world. No wonder that you can even find a store fully dedicated to clothes coming from India. Lost In has a gorgeous selection of shirts, jackets, shawls and dresses, all kept in bold colours and made from finest cottons. Just behind the store you’ve got a bar/restaurant with the same name. Didn’t eat there, though.

R. Dom Pedro V 56-D

Casa Pau-Brasil is another spot that can be easily dubbed as ‘mind-blowing’. At the entrance, stuffed yellow birds hang from the ceiling of the Palácio Castilho in Lisbon’s Príncipe Real neighbourhood. Casa Pau-Brasil opened its doors in April 2017 to stage Brazilian design, fashion and beauty to the European world. This huge space sells the best of Brazil – Fernando and Umberto Campana’s surreal furniture; wooden tables from Hugo França; evening wear from Juliana Herc; sweets by Chocolate Q. And many, many others.

Rua da Escola Politécnica 42

If you’re interested in reading more posts on Portugal, or you’re planning your trip to places like Porto or the Algarve region, click here.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

 

Bordallo Pinheiro Garden

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It’s a small garden, or rather a well-hidden oasis in the heart of Lisbon, where the amazing giant porcelain creations of the 19th-century artist Rafael Bordallo Pinheiro bask in the sun. Scattered amongst the trees, bushes and live peacocks, you will be surprised to find the oversized snakes, lizards, bees, frogs, lobsters, mushrooms and cats all over the jardin. Honestly, I was quite shocked that nobody really knows about the existence of this place (I’m more than grateful to this Purple Travel post that I’ve found few weeks ago!). At least, you can walk around the garden all alone, in silence. It was the last point of my spring holidays, but one of the most magical.

Campo Grande 245 / Lisbon

Claus Porto

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The Chiado district of Lisbon is a treasure chest of the best goods coming from all over Portugal. At the roots of Claus Porto are its German founders and a beautiful, historic city of Porto. The label built its name on hand-crafted soaps infused with fine fragrances, which draw on ingredients from the country’s rich and lush countryside. These products are imbued with an artisan’s heart and soul, and are wrapped by hand in packaging illustrated with retro-inspired and vintage graphic designs, which give a sense of being transported to the glamourous decadence of Belle Époque Europe. Not only soaps tempt you at Claus Porto, but as well creams and perfumes. Still, it’s the signature soap that everyone has to bring back home, whether you’re deciding between Classico, Deco, Agua de Colonia or Musgo Real.

Rua da Misericórdia 135 / Lisbon

Eating in Lisbon

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Lisbon is not only great art, mind-blowing architecture and stylish concept stores. It’s also all about food! And really good food, I should admit. And no, the don’t only eat baskets of freshly picked clementines here (as pictured above) – even though a fresh juice made of them is an actual seventh wonder. Here’s my short guide around some of my favourite eating spots and dinner places in the Portuguese capital.

If you’re planning your dinner at Cervejaria Ramiro, read carefully the following: beware of the queue! No reservations, which is usual for the best restaurants in Lisbon. But before you induldge yourself in all those spider crabs, razor clams, tiger prawns and goose barnacles, you’ve got to wait for about half to one hour outside. No worries – they serve beer for the patient ones. And the waiting is really worth it.

Av. Almirante Reis N.1

After an exhausting excursion to Alfama’s most important churches and a few hours of walking down and up the hilly streets, Pois Café is the right place to take a break. The interior is an eclectic mix of brick, vintage furniture and local artists’ paintings. Food is simple, but tasty – take the plate with mozzarella bufala or the passion fruit cheesecake. A fast brunch / lunch in an intriguing spot.

R. de São João da Praça 93-95

A Chevicheria is Lisbon’s hottest dining place. The huge octopus hanging above the bar tempts to enter and try Kiko Martins’ signature seafood menu. Whether it’s a tuna ceviche with radish or St. Jacob’s mussels, you won’t be dissapointed with the restaurant, that’s for sure. Again, no reservations, possibility of waiting in a queue. But the locals know what’s good!

Rua Dom Pedro V129

Morgadinha de Alfama is not a busy, fancy kind of place, but it has one of the most romantic patios in town. And delightful tapas! It’s especially refreshing when the temperature rises and you can hide hear from the scorching sun.

Beco do Alfurja 2

Everybody heard of Time Out Market in Lisbon. You can eat anything here, from the best pata negra ham and fried squids to soaps in the most stylish packages at A Vida Portuguesa corner. The food here is good, true, but the prices are slightly too high. Also, don’t expect Berlin’s market coziness – Time Out is much more commercialised. But the flower shop located inside is a total must visit – even if you can’t buy a bouquet due to approaching airplane travel. Just beautiful.

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In case of traditional Portuguese patisseries, Padaria e Pastelarias Panificação R. Sao Roque is unrivalled. Try tapas served in a more contemporary manner at Tapisco. I hope that the next time I’m in Lisbon, I will discover equally delicious places. Any recommendations, maybe?

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

República das Flores

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Have you ever wondered what it’s like to enter a cabinet de curiosités? Well, entering República das Flores might be just the experience you’ve always been dreaming of. It’s a magical store that’s located in a Pombaline house from the beginning of the 19th century in Lisbon’s Chiado district. What to see and love in here? Perfumed paper, cushions, soaps and bath products, Bordalo Pinheiro china, fresh flowers, linen table clothes from Porto, vintage garments, jewellery from remote destinations, Alentejo oil and wine, antique objects from India and Morocco… in fact, you can’t go out with empty hands.

Rua Alecrim 99 / Lisbon

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Mini by Luna

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Mini by Luna‘s aim was to bring together woman, kids and well-curated home decorations under the same roof. The two-story space beautifully represents the subtle elegance, sophistication and simplicity of a number of Portuguese and international labels (such as Pomandère, American Vintage, Osklen, Tocoto Vintage, Aden & Anais, April Showers and Mes Demoiselles). It’s one of my favourite addresses in Lisbon for a reason – the garments you will find here are seasonless, and they perfectly convey this kind of laid-back, always sunny style the locals have here. And all those baskets! Aah. If you’re here, you can’t ignore the shoes by another Portuguese label called Maray. Those hand-made, leather babouches (nicely finished with tassels and other details) are a must-buy.

Rua Dom Pedro V 74 / Lisbon

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Lisbon

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I’ve been quite absent on the site lately, as me and my family went for a spring break to Portugal and Spain. And, I’ve found my new love: it’s Lisbon. From Chiado to Alfama district, from the laundry dried on the streets to the most precious ornaments in Church of Sao Roque, Lisbon is full, but full of beauty. And of always smiling people, delightful food (really, wherever you go – a post on my favourite eating spots in the city is coming soon) and art! Here are some of the moments I’ve captured, while walking down the hilly, sun-drenched streets and during the moon-lit evenings.

In case of art, the Portuguese capital is booming with impressive museums. If you’re around the town for a day or two, don’t miss Museu Coleção Berardo, one of the largest private collections of contemporary art in the world. The permanent exhibition contains works by Andy Warhol, James Turrell, Jeff Koons, Louise Bourgeois, Nan Goldin and many, many more. Until the 3rd of June, there’s also the No place like home exhibition that creates a conceptual dialogue between domestic spaces, utilities and modern art. For a stark contrast, later on check out the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, which will shook you with European masters and some of the greatest works of Renaissance. A must visit as well. 

Don’t worry – more of Lisbon (plus Portuguese seaside and Sevilla in Spain) is around the corner!

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.