Energy. Talia Byre SS26

September 21, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

I’ll be frank – I haven’t really paid much attention to the past few days of London Fashion Week. So far, everything has felt a little out of place. That is, until today’s Talia Byre show, which I genuinely loved.

Talia Lipkin-Connor, the designer behind the brand, reminds me of Phoebe Philo – not in terms of aesthetics, but in energy. Like Philo, Talia creates no-nonsense clothes that endure, exude effortless cool, and resonate with women who aren’t necessarily invested in fashion.

Her spring–summer 2026 line-up featured utilitarian yet chic overalls, brilliantly cut trousers, and bold graphic stripes that gave the collection a striking sense of potency and urgency. The Talia Byre woman enjoys indulging in dressier touches – like a beautifully beaded V-neck sweater – but ultimately, she remains grounded (especially in those shearling-trimmed boots). It’s a matter of time till more clients buy into this brand.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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No-Nonsense. Talia Byre AW25

February 26, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

If you’re looking for an absolutely great emerging brand in London, here’s a clue: it’s Talia Byre and her no-nonsense take on what IRL women want. Stunningly cut shirts that borrowed from traditional menswear silhouettes (in checks and stripes); a nylon skirt with girlish sectioned pleats; charming, wool knitwear in vibrant shades of canary-yellow and sweet-lilac. What’s not to love?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Raw Femininity. Simone Rocha AW25

February 26, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simone Rocha channeled a tougher, rawer perspective on femininity, one close to her – and her 15 year old brand’s – heart. Faux-fur coats were sliced to ribbons halfway up from their hemlines, a gesture repeated across the collection, giving an animalistic, primary touch (and not-so-obvious sensuality). Jackets and skirts in Rocha’s tinsel-strafed bouclé tweed were also given the shredder treatment. The designer combined harnessing with lingerie, ruffles with chains, creating garments beaming with attitude.

That attitude was embodied by a cast of non-models, like the sensational actress Fiona Shaw who wore a duchesse-satin black gown. Rocha has been inviting characters of different walks of life to her runways for years; Burberry was certainly inspired this season by her always-working strategy of making clothes feel truly real.

ED’s SELECTION:

Simone Rocha Bow-embellished Faux-fur Pumps

Simone Rocha Crystal-embellished Organza Midi Dress

Simone Rocha Crystal-embellished Tulle Midi Dress

Simone Rocha Cropped Bow-embellished Open-knit Mohair-blend Cardigan

Simone Rocha Crystal-embellished Silver-tone Hair Clip

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Dolls. Conner Ives AW25

February 25, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

This one’s for all the dolls. Conner Ives presented his ultra-glamorous offering of eveningwear at Savoy’s Beaufort Bar, and one can easily imagine women strutting and striding in those fur-tripped numbers or Art Deco-ish piano-dresses during the night. The plum number with deep, plunging neckline was accessorized with fringe-y headwear made out of bottle caps, making it all feel not overly serious. That’s exactly Conner Ives’ sense of style: tongue-in-cheek-chic. The line-up emanated with a certain whimsy-but-cool, sexy-but-with-a-twist femininity, reminiscing Stella McCartney’s days at Chloé. Brits know how to have fun.

ED’s SELECTION:

Conner Ives Tie-neck Appliquéd Stretch-micro Modal Jersey Tank

Conner Ives Paneled Printed Recycled Cotton-jersey Dress

Conner Ives Appliquéd Printed Cotton-jersey T-shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Noble Characters. Burberry AW25

February 25, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Burberry felt good. Maybe it didn’t reinvent the wheel, but being conceptual was never a Burberry thing to do. Daniel Lee is starting to know what he’s doing and that showed in his best collection yet, the autumn-winter 2025 outing, riffing on the style of British aristocracy with a grain of salt. The clothes – outerwear, especially – were convincing and desirably-looking, but let’s be honest: the casting worked the hardest, and it gave the collection a sense of authentic believability. From Naomi Campbell to Jason Isaacs, you saw true characters on the runway – who happened to wear Burberry (that looked like Burberry – finally!). One thing Lee could work on is the heaviness some of his clothes are burdened with, especially the eveningwear.