System is the Smartest

November 16, 2015November 16, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Lately, nearly every fashion magazine which can be considered as less ambitious or as a very niche one, pretends to make art out of celebrities. But what about the real stars of fashion? And I am not talking about the models this time. I mean the designers and creatives, who make this industry propel. When I opened the very first page of the newest System Magazine, I felt a relief that Justin Bieber won’t be the unexpected “fashion icon”. Reading the absolutely honest and down-to-earth Raf Simons interview by Cathy Horyn was a pleasure, and simultaneously proved that the people behind System value the quality of texts.

I am still absorbing the 6th issue, but I can distinctly remember that the Giorgio Armani issue was a lovely, one-week reading, filled with fashion insider’s point of views and thoughts. Even though the reading part is the biggest asset of System, I also enjoy their sharp and individualistic creative direction. The editorials photographed by Juergen Teller (just like the 100 page one for the last haute couture collection by Raf Simons for Dior) and portfolios of legendary artists match the unconventional nature of the magazine. System, edited by Alexia Niedzielski, Elizabeth von Guttman, Jonathan Wingfield, Thomas Lenthal and many other contributing writers and creatives takes it to the next level – it’s not just an expensive booklet of advertisements, but valuable literature for those who are truly into fashion. In other words, System is both relevant and smart. And I will keep it for a longer moment on my coffee-table – and eventually leave a graceful space for it in my book-shelf.

Here is a throwback of the previous issues’ essential editorials.

Comme des Garcons by Juergen Teller

Miuccia Prada by Willy Vanderperre

Julien Dossena for Paco Rabanne by Patrick Demarchelier

Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga by Patrick Demarchelier

Elizabeth. Giles SS16

September 22, 2015September 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

To understand Giles‘s spring-summer 2016 collection, it’s good to look at the last few outfits. The laser-cut, micro-pleated, satin organza gown was worn by the one and only, red-haired Karen Elson. She emerged, looking at the audience with a royal manner, like the clone of Queen Elizabeth I in some kind of postapocalyptic, futuristic times. The show was set in the Elizabethan-era Banqueting Room in Whitehall, which was booked by Giles Deacon already a year ago – however, the place precisely reflected the collection’s mood. All the historic references played a role in the textile usage – Baroque wallpaper florals and embroideries based on tapestries look stunning on everything. There is no Giles collection without a proper dose of drama, too. The designer indulged himself in voluminous skirts, balloon-shaped sleeves and dresses with parachute hems or underlying layers of tulle. The long, white shirt-dress worn by Natalie Westling is the key piece to look forward next season. And coming back to the model casting, Giles was over-the-top with the hottest faces: Edie Campbell, Erin O’Connor, Molly Bair, Damaris Goddrie, Anna Cleveland and many more walked the runway last night.

Electric Combinations. Christopher Kane SS16

September 22, 2015September 21, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christopher Kane moves to the rythm of SS16 with a return to neon brights and patchwork dressing – python skins combined with plastic? Yes, I’m totally into that electric combination. What about the abstractly panneled cocktail dresses with straw-fringes? Acid-spilt lace skirts are back, too – but in a much more futuristic edition. The designer behind London’s fastest growing label happily let his creativity take over the reigns, and that is visible by the amount of uncommerical pieces presented during the show. Also, hand-made stuff fans, here is one for you – if you wish to do some DIY for next season, try out Christopher’s jewellery. You can find those plastic thingies in every Castorama or Ikea around your place!

Patchwork Perfect. Jonathan Saunders SS16

September 21, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

For the last few seasons, Jonathan Saunders made the fashion industry slightly yawn. His collections were good, but totally not ground-breaking in terms of design. However, his spring-summer 2016 was like a massive wave on a calm surface of water – bold stripes, sexy cut-outs and appealing silhouettes took over the control. Strong, patchwork game played the main role this time – the floral kimonos and silk, midi-skirts looked sleek and on-point. The suede, pastel-coloured jacket seemed to be the perfect choice for next summer – hopefully, Jonathan will once again concentrate on the clothes, and not whether his collection is 60’s or 70’s enough, as in case of last season.

Royal Tenderness. Simone Rocha SS16

September 20, 2015September 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Spring-summer 2016 seems to be the most daring collection for Simone Rocha up to date. And not only because the show was staged in Buckingham Palace. This collection proved, that Simone Rocha is a designer who can freely play with her own signatures. The new season was all about blurring prettiness, tenderness and sexuality with traditional and high-tech techniques. Lace tops were styled with brown, neoprene trousers while the flip-flops and dresses were embroidered with crystals, which took the designer into a more couture level. But how did the collection and vision of presenting it in London’s most royal place appear in Rocha’s mind? “I found out I was pregnant while I was in Japan, working on a project with Dover Street Market Ginza, and then went on to Kyoto for a few days,” said Rocha. “I was suddenly seeing everything so intensely, it felt trippy!” Although the collection was not mainly about Japanese references, it had a lot to do with kimono silhouettes. But the main idea was deeply rooted in the history of British aristocracy – the ball-room gowns, pretty ruffles and the lady-like feeling.