I think I will puke with glitter. This Meadham Kirchhoff for Topshop collection is so… so very Meadham Kirchhoff. Just ten times cheaper and uglier. The young designer duo from London that are famous for sexy Bavarian / Dracula dresses and monster fur jackets, just lauched the worst collection. Ever. For Topshop. Definitely London-it-girls will wear it… but every fashionista who loves playing games with fashion, certainly are going to lose the level.
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Interview with Helen Bullock
Helen Bullock (Central Saint Martins BA, MA) is a textiles-driven label, using strong silhouettes as a platform for bold prints of a visceral nature. Throughout the seasons, work has been featured in publications including Dazed & Confused, i-D, and Vogue. And… now she’s up on Design & Culture by Ed !
EDWARD: Hi Helen. You are a young fashion designer from London, who graduated Central Saint Martins BA and MA, having your own label Helen Bullock and doing amazing illustrations during the fashion weeks. It’s all really impressive. Well, I hope you are doing fine?
HELEN: I AM!!!!
ED: What inspired you for this season’s collection? It’s so FULL of prints! And as I know, all textiles are designed by you.
H: Yes! All about the prints! As always a look across many different paths of imagery in an attempt to create my own visual story. At first I was driven by the bold honesty of graphic 60s prints, alongside a carefree image of Peggy Moffitt, combined with the intensity and composition of Keith Herrings work. Bit of a whirlwind really.
ED: Many designers usually find out they are going to be in fashion industry after sometime of studying different stuff. But when you were choosing your college, did you feel from the beginning you will be a fashion designer?
H: As the cliche often goes it really was something I dreamed of as a kid – but no more so perhaps than other options that preoccupied me. I eventually started studying fashion a little later than normal, and was a little resistant as thought the fashion pathway was a little predictable, and was thinking of myself as a fine artist. That all stopped though when I came across the idea of print … something that I’d never considered before, but seemed to bridge the gap so well between art and faaaashion!
ED: If you could choose, who would you love to wear your pieces? This can be an alive or dead person…
H: Well … I absolutely love it when Julie (Vehoeven) wears them …. but on a wish list Peggy Moffit would be super … and Iris Von Apfel would surely rock it!
ED: Who is your biggest fashion idol?
H: Anyone really who is prepared to take a risk and walk down the street holding their head high. I’m sat next to a lady Linda right now wearing a wonderful explosion of a Diana Freis dress…and dolly curls in her hair – we work together every Monday, and she never fails to impress.
ED: While you are a fashion designer, at the same time you’re contributing your fashion illustrations for A Magazine Curated By…. How would describe your drawing style?
H: Intuitive, sparing and in equal measures intense, at times awkward.
ED: Looking at your print erupting clothes, it seems you have a very energetic personality. Does your everyday style reflect the collections?
H: I hope so. I feel at a low if I’m not wearing brightness.
ED: If it’s not a secret- what are your next future steps for your label?
H: I’m trying to work my label as a limited edition made to order product. So rather than stockists, I’m almost searching for a place to exhibit the garment. At present though I’m setting up an on line shop, and have various collaborations in the pipeline.
I’m also hoping to add a range of scarfs to my next collection.
Printed Girl: Helen Bullock
Helen Bullock, coming from London’s Central Saint Martins, is a textile and fashion designer whose works and illustrations were published on Dazed Digital, I-D and Vogue throughout the seasons. Using strong silhouettes as a platform for bold prints of a visceral nature, her Summer 2014 collection is simply amazing. With sharp cuts, strong colours and interesting textiles, Bullock is a designer whose name can’t be forgot. “Helen’s work is full of vibrance, energy and spirit. Her clothes radiate a sense of confidence, both in proportion and application of line. She is a true creative force, and produces work with a beautiful timeless quality” as said Julie Verhoeven, a supporter of Helen’s work. Together with the beautiful model Frances Rose Knee and photographer Chloe Oretice, the look book for SS14 is full of structured tank-tops and patterns that we really love. Hopefully, soon, we will hear even more of Helen Bullock!
Michał Mrzygłód
Today at the amazing fashion fair here in Poznan, Poland, I had a pleasure to meet Michal Mrzyglod, the designer of a fresh label Mrzyglod. This London based label created by this young, amazing designer, is a mixture of street style influence, hi-tech fabrics and Polish folklore cut-outs but are made thanks to laser in Michal’s designs. As he shows his impressive pieces on male model, I would rather say that they are more unisex- definitely they are looking great on women. What I loved in his new collection that I saw today in live at the Hush fashion fair, is the youthful energy, strong colours and the practicality that is thanks to fabrics created by the designer. There is a big use of nowadays hottest material, neoprene and lots of salmon leather attached to sweatshirts and bags. Oh, and the shoes… These look really cosmic! If talking of Polish/London fashion scene, Michal Mrzyglod is the name to watch!
“Things” We Saw at SS14
As the Summer 2014 fashion month ended, there are new trends, rumours and facetious moments being summoned on different blogs and magazines. But, here, you will find the strangest, scariest, funniest, inhumane, and coolest things of the season! The venues, shoes, beauty and clothes were taken under consideration, so simply enjoy! (Above: The Givenchy venue showing a car crash in the middle of the runway.)
Marco Zanini, who had his last season at Rochas, presented an awful collection inspired with… well everything. I was never a fan of Rochas, but this season it was really eerie to watch this. The above shoes with crystal backs and shaggy front are really creeping out. How is it possible to walk in these? C’mon, Celine yellow fluffy heels last Summer were better!
Pat McGrath spent 12 hours on doing these masks at Givenchy with 40 other people. Isn’t it a bit of time-consuming beauty trend? It’s definitely art, but surely it won’t rule at DIY blogs this season. You need Pat McGrath to do it, of course.
There was something yeti like about Gareth Pugh SS14 wigs.
Jean Paul Gaultier and Louis Vuitton (whose designer, Marc Jacobs says bye-bye to us after 16 years) are trending this season a very interesting trend- denim worn under skirts. That seems pretty cool… and definitely mixed up!
J.W. Anderson. In other words, nothing here is simple as you may think.
Marc Jacobs in New York was a fashion epoque mash-up. Victorian era mixed with a beach party and Coca-Cola? I totally buy it. And the blond wigs… so cool! Plus, Cara Delevigne, Edie Campbell, Charlotte Free, Sky Ferreira and Georgia May Jagger where there.
Proenza Schouler presented a beautiful coat made out of… well, a rug? Who cares, it’s still beautiful. And this clutch…
Seriously, is Sonia Rykiel’s weather forecast is so bad for Summer? Are we goings to wear fur scarves around Paris soonly? Hopefully no, but… This fur looks awesome with these boudoir dresses.
Simone Rocha does crocs next season. With PEARLS. The world is near the end.
Comme des Garcons moved the topic of consumism and art… Definitely Rei Kawabuko’s dresses will be hitting the streets of Tokyo next Summer!
Chanel will have backbags for Summer! The look like taken from thrift shop, but calm down… They are going to cost about 5000 euros each.
Rick Owens revolutionized the runway with Soul Step group for his Furious collection. Clothes were blah, but the controversy- totally yes!
Christopher Kane has the best collection in London, presented somewhere on the streets. The inspirations with nature, street style and high technology are so OMG, that the collections landed in my “one of the best” list in my heart. Lovee…
