Ease of Today. Carven Pre-Fall 2024

The best indicators of whether a brand is taking shape under a new creative director are not the runway collections, but the pre-collections. Judging by the pre-fall 2024 lookbook, Louise Trotter‘s Carven certainly is on the right path to be your new favorite Parisian brand. “It is not a nostalgic or particular prism of a woman,” said the British designer, when asked how the heritage of Carven informs her approach. “It’s that sense of silhouette and sense of proportion with an ease of today.” Comparing to other designers in Paris who struggle with reviving historic Parisian maisons (think Nina Ricci and Rochas), Trotter isn’t stepping into the trap of the archives. She isn’t pulling out a mid-century dress and trying to make it look somehow relevant in 2024. But she smartly deconstructs elements of Madame Carven’s sensibility, and incorporates them into contemporary Carven. For instance, the 1950s column silhouette is revisited in a tank dress worn over a t-shirt. For pre-fall, the designer is gravitating towards a more masculine wardrobe; think sweatshirt in sheepskin or a technical Prince of Wales trouser. The softly tailored coat that comes in either double-face cashmere or chocolate wool gabardine is phenomenal. “I want to find solutions for her life, as I do for myself,” Trotter noted. “It’s instinctive for me. These are pieces that I appreciate and want to wear.” Other women will, too.

Here are some of my favorite pieces from Trotter’s debut collection for Carven. Last sizes left!

ED’s SELECTION:


CARVEN Striped Tech-shell Shirt



CARVEN Pleated Satin Midi Skirt



CARVEN Strapless Twill Maxi Dress



CARVEN Oversized Embellished Tulle Top



CARVEN Satin Shorts



CARVEN Leather Mules



CARVEN Oversized Satin-twill Jacket



CARVEN Striped Shell Tote Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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New Carven

Carven, founded in 1945 by Madame Carven, has finally found a designer that can navigate it in the contemporary times: the hyper-talented Louise Trotter. Her Carven debut collection is one of the biggest highlights of this season. Ahead of her spring-summer 2024 fashion show in Paris, Trotter had voiced her desire to start the brand anew. She indeed delivered her promise, but that doesn’t mean total erasure of the brand’s identity. In its history, Carven was known for distinct, hourglass silhouette. The British creative director references it throughout the new offering via powerful shoulders and nipped-in waists. Throughout the collection’s looks (styled by Suzanne Koller), the designer redefines timeless wardrobe essentials: cinched trench coats, transparent white shirts, elegant black dresses, all contrasted with playful details like over-sized leather poach bags, vibrant shades of sky-blue and mint-green, or beaded embroideries. The new Carven delivers a fresh layer to the eternal myth of Parisian chic, being far, far from a cliché.

Here are my favorite pieces from the collection, which you can shop now!

ED’s SELECTION:


Striped Tech-shell Shirt



Organza Midi Skirt



Strapless Twill Maxi Dress



Oversized Satin-twill Hooded Jacket



Cotton-poplin Maxi Skirt



Oversized Cotton-jersey T-shirt



Satin Shorts



Double-breasted Satin-trimmed Crepe Coat



Wool Polo Top



Stretch-jersey Leggings



Cotton Waist Belt



Leather Mules

 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Misplaced Classics. Carven AW24

Louise Trotter‘s sophomore collection for Carven signals that Paris has a new go-to brand for unconstrained elegance. “I have continued to develop the wardrobe archetypes, the everyday made precious, brought to life in unexpected context, fabrication and proportion. The allure of being dressed up and yet in stages of undress; a space where there is no separation between daywear and evening and where typical daywear silhouettes and fabrics morph into atypical occasion or evening wear. Misplaced classics infused with the comfort and ease of sportswear,” the designer summed up. From the restrained and tonal palette to the masculine-feminine permutations of fabric and shape, there’s a lot to covet. Interestingly, Trotter acknowledged the brand’s history. Madame Carven’s legacy was alive in the column and hourglass silhouettes. And all that stunningly styled by Suzanne Koller. More and more industry insiders are lured by the new charm of Carven, so I expect it to be firing up any second.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Start Anew. Carven SS24

It’s been a while since the last time we’ve heard about Carven. It’s a tricky French maison to revive: it has a vast archive and heritage, but somehow, for years, nobody could position the brand the right way for the contemporary times. But it seems it finally found its person: the hyper-talented Louise Trotter. Her Carven debut is one of the biggest highlights of this Paris Fashion Week. Ahead of her spring-summer 2024 fashion show, Trotter had voiced her desire to start the brand anew. That didn’t mean total erasure of the brand’s identity. Established in 1945, Carven was known for its hourglass silhouette. The British creative director referenced it through powerful shoulders and nipped-in waists. Throughout its 40 looks, styled by Suzanne Koller, the designer is redefining timeless wardrobe essentials. Cinched trench coats, transparent white shirts, elegant black dresses: Carven delivers a new layer to the eternal myth of Parisian chic. For Trotter, simplicity does not mean boring; the designer made sure to explore different textures. Sheer skirts and tops were a standout in the collection, especially when layered on top of heavyweight short dresses, just like the beading of the accessories. Watch this space!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Très Cool. Lacoste AW21

Louise Trotter‘s sustainable-meets-chic-meets-smart vision of Lacoste keeps on delivering with every season. Lacoste has the benefit of being a brand at the nexus of athleisure and luxury, offering pieces that are at once trop sportif and trop française. That’s a clutch position for a fashion house in these times. It also has the benefit of the well-dressed Trotter at its helm. She is the woman in a slouchy polo, mannish trousers, white sneakers, and aviator glasses that makes you pinch yourself in a jealous rage when you pass her on the street or are seated next to her at a dinner. Someone who is calmly unstudied, comfortable, and totally not try-hard. Suffice to say, Trotter has long understood the benefits of generous, easy-to-wear clothing with arty touches in the form of a funny, albeit small, graphic or the juxtaposition of sorbet colors. So when it came time to design Lacoste’s second collection of the lockdowns, she knew exactly what to do: “Capture the active lifestyle that we share today and that blurs between home life, work, and play.” The backbone of Trotter’s autumn-winter 2021 offering is Lacoste’s famous piqué cotton, cut into lively hued polos, but also groovy tracksuits and cardigans. Some are intarsia’d with crocodile claws and flaming tennis balls – sort of silly patterns Trotter found in the brand’s archive. They are all, she notes, unisex – as is almost everything else in the collection. If the varsity jackets and cool puffers read a little on-the-nose in terms of branding, Trotter’s continuation of spring 2021’s upcycled and collaged windbreakers, trousers, and coats offer a more cerebral take. The Lacoste archive is rich with both heritage inspirations and unused or vintage materials; Trotter has married them nicely in these upcycled pieces. They will pair well with the collection’s piqué tracksuits and cartoon colored pool slides. That’s exactly how Trotter would wear them. In a time when everyone is questioning how to dress, a sure-footed and stylish creative director with a singular vision is a good guide.

“Live” collage by Edward Kanarecki.