Milan by Night

February 8, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Milan by night is all about the people, who seem to be so relaxed and never in a hurry; the scent of bold flowers from the local, street kiosks; the smell of delightful Italian cuisine coming from trattorias and bristros; and the beauty of lit up architecture, which never stops mesmerising. And it’s the city, where trams look always chic – observing elder women who wear their mink coats and tweed pencil skirts entering the old-school public transport is both, a fashion moment and me-after-school defining goal.

Love you, Milan.

Yep, it’s me!

All photographs courtesy of Design & Culture by Ed

Men’s – Old Story. Haider Ackermann AW16

January 21, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“It was all about clash, just the same old story” is how Haider Ackermann described his autumn-winter 2016 collection. In fact, he is right – the new collection revives the designer’s masterful skills with layer and texture clashing. The rock’n’roll attitude was present, too, with the flaccid mohawks on models’ heads and a wardrobe full of skinny leather pants and shirts. The richness of textiles is Ackermann’s other signature. The olive-green and blue velvet jackets contrasted with woolen pants and chic coats while the oriental, jacquard suits made a statement of an elegant men, who is more decadent than ordinary. It’s old-school, but spicy at the same tine. If you’ve seen the film titled Only Lovers Left Alive by Jim Jarmusch, you will surely understand what I feel about this collection – it’s for a vampire-guy who strolls around Tangier with Tilda Swinton, listens to a local indie-signer and seeks his next prey for blood. Even though this vision seems to be highly surreal, it has that elusive “something” that makes my love for Haider’s menswear passionate. Really, I wish I could dress the way his man does, but I would have to dramatically lose some weight…

Eclectic Girl. Gucci Resort’16

June 5, 2015June 5, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yesterday’s Gucci show was not only a surprise due to its appearance in New York. It was intriguing. And Alessandro Michele knows that. The new designer, who left the sex-drived Tom Ford and Euro-sleek Frida Gianini behind, makes Gucci a brand, which is rather all about eclecticism and vintage. The word “eclectic” came up constantly when Michele was talking about the collection backstage. He also talked of “love” fuelling the collection, which incidentally appeared on a sweater in French –”aveugle par l’amour”. So hippie and optimistic, which is what Michele’s vibe is all about. “I’m inspired by a lot of things – from the street, antiques, vintage wardrobes. It’s impossible to explain the exact point of inspiration. It’s about being free to love, free to express, free to show who you are through the way you dress,” said Michele. “Luxury means that you show the way you dress with eccentricity. It’s almost like a new kind of jetset – instead of roaming around the world, you’re roaming with your clothes.” As you see, even the approach to luxury, which is up to now an essence of the brand, has changed.

But coming back to the venue matter. Gucci chose a gallery space in New York’s Chelsea, furnished with Persian rugs. As a remix of orchestral soundtracks started up, the garage doors to the gallery were raised up and the models walked in from the street, where outside Glen Luchford was shooting a film. And the street is certainly where Michele sees his eclectic cast existing. No wonder why the clothes might (or even should) remind you of Williamsburg’s thrift shops and Milanese flea markets, where the clothes are all about kitschy embroidery and cheesy patterns. But in case of Alessandro Michele and his mesmerizing Gucci affair, it was all about hand-made embellishments (the snake!), gold glitter on the shoes, soft lace and imperial Astrakhan jackets.

Although the collection might seem to have many overkilling details, I am happy Michele is in the game. I am a bit fed up with all that “ugly chic” and minimalism which is practically everywhere. I felt a lack of beauty, romance and that 70’s freedom in fashion for a while. However, the new Gucci delivers that in a very proud, brave way. Interesting how the retailers are going to deal with all that sheer artistry.

Modern Boudoir. Christopher Kane AW15

February 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

For Christopher Kane, February is the month of buzz. The AW15 collection presented during #LFW was accompanied with the opening of his first ever flagship store in London, on Mount Street. The store looks sleek and modern – the interior reflects the aesthetic of the brand and clothes. But coming back to the collection – we are talking about sex in here. The opening look – a seductive velvet suite. Then, the game changed it’s manner into fluid-like organza and hand-made embroidery. Lastly, Chris brough an orgy of hand-appliqued illustrations of naked women and men… literally, having fun. Seeing the model Alexandra Elizabeth having a polygamic relationship on her body made everybody feel puzzled and a bit concerned. Not that I oppose this type of relationship, but… which women would want to wear a dress representing such, uhm, event? That’s a topic which must be discussed.

Paltò Italia

February 8, 2015February 8, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Paltò Italia – a coat is a base of each wardrobe. Paltò, which means in Italian “a coat”, brings tradition, heritage, detailing and craftsmenship to reality. Milan’s streets are full of them! Designed and contrived in traditional way by Luca Paganelli, wearing one of those unisex coats is an unforgettable experience. So soft, so comfortable. They fuse between decadent and dandy and city cool. As I am in a continous search for the perfect coat which would match everything, I think Paltò Italia is the right address.