System Magazine 1 / Nicolas Ghesquiere special feature
Vogue Paris November 2014 / Anais Mali in Figures de Caracteres
Comme des Garcons / 1994
Versace lookbook 1996 / Bruce Weber
Hermes by Martin Margiela / AW03
Vetements / Novembre Magazine
Wet. The models were literally wet during the Maison Martin Margiela show. What else felt “wow” in this collection? Hand-painted daisies on skirts and over-sized sunglasses. And the print mash-up with oriental kimono-like cut-outs. What was the idea, motif of the idea? No idea. But it felt attractive, a bit perverse and very mysterious. It feels elusive and totally Margiela.
“It enriches, it dresses, it decorates” was the quote, as Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal once again sought out a vision of haute couture that is wholly idiosyncratic to the house. Having cherry-picked the finest textiles from 18th century French lampas silks to Japanese 50s silk bomber jackets, MMM lavished hours of embroidery and embellishment work on top so that you can’t distinguish what was found and what was created. Again, thing that were lost were again found, things old were new and thing ugly again were beautiful. Although, I must say, it all looked like a mascarade ball. And veils were all about faberge eggs, Kanye!
Jeans mixed with sweatpants; coat worn with a sweater (without anything else under, except tattoos); artisanal embroideries taped all over the torso. That was possibly one of the most elusive and difficult to understand collection served by Maison Martin Margiela. But you could be sure of one thing: nothing had one sense. Even these orange coats or wool, brown socks worn with sneakers.