Men’s – Napoleon. Y/Project AW17

January 22, 2017January 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

What happens when hip-hop star’s clothes land in Napoleon I’s wardrobe? Or Henry VIII takes style tips from Kanye? Glenn Martens, the designer behind Y/Project, is here to envision those impossible scenarios. Fusing royalty with streetwear, the Belgian designer styled distorted denim jackets with aristocratic, scarlet velvet. Every high-profile rapper has his / her merch outside the concert, selling everything from t-shirts to scarves: Martens reinterpreted the latter, putting faces of famous royals on each of them. Also, the floor-sweeping corduroy coats will make any entrance grand.

Men’s – Supreme. Louis Vuitton AW17

January 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ever wondered how to make everyone look at you in the fashion industry? The answer is as easy as that – invite Supreme to collaborate on your collection. Kim Jones precisely did this for his autumn-winter 2017 collection for Louis Vuitton, tapping the cult, New York-based brand, which keeps today’s youth drooling. Although I know I should be a fan of Supreme – perfectly fitting into the age target of this streetwear giant – I’m not. I just don’t get ecstatic about seeing a white-on-red logo on a sweatshirt or backpack. But the way Jones introduced Supreme to Louis Vuitton is intriguing. Ignoring the huge gap between ‘luxury ‘ and ‘street’, the designer wasn’t afraid to pull off a crocodile leather aviator jacket with Sup hand-bag or pendant. Moreover, he took a new spin on the monogram print, mashing up LV with SUPREME. In terms of the clothes, Kim didn’t dissapoint. Slouchy styling, brilliant layering – male version of Parisian chic is here, featuring a skate-board and biker hat.

Men’s – Bundle Up. Rick Owens AW17

January 21, 2017January 24, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

“I thought, ‘God, I’m getting really earnest,’” Rick Owens explained Dazed & Confused backstage of his autumn-winter 2017 collection. “Instead of whining so much, it has to be about rejecting oppressive, turbulent times and defying it. When I look at the collection, it’s very much about bundling up, it’s about wrapping up. It’s like getting ready for turbulence.” This season, designers openly respond to the current political oppression, which is happening around the globe. From ‘peace scouts’ at Prada to defiant London-based designers, it’s about a modern-day armour. Owens takes part in the rebel, dressing his man in shelter gear: wrapped-around-body duvet jackets, voluminous pants and colossal puffa cocoons. We’re strong.

Punk Dandy. Haider Ackermann AW17

January 20, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Haider Ackermann is about to present his first collection for Berluti this week – so no wonder why he decided to make his autumn-winter 2017 collection a kind of “designer aesthetic” retrospective filled with his signature essentials. It was pure Haider, but even sharper and fiercer than usual. Inspired by punk and hard-rock subcultures, Ackermann conveyed the rebellious attitude in leather biker jackets, skinny pants in tartan plaid and slouchy robe-coats. ‘Stitched’ velvet suits looked especially impressive and badass. Dangerous and appealing – those two terms well describe these Haider’s dandy-ish rockman.

Men’s – Existentialism. Lemaire AW17

January 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yolk-yellow peeked out beneath coffee-brown. Dove-grey and camel-beige. Poetic black and elegant indigo-blue. As you can see right away, Christophe Lemaire‘s autumn-winter 2017 collection for men was a beautiful conversation between colours. And the clothes were beautiful too, in every meaning of this word. I’m absolutely a Lemaire-type of person and I would wear anything coming from this collection right now. The loose-fit of pants; perfectly tailored pea-coat; parka jacket that would stay in my wardrobe for ever. Aah. Yet, it’s all distinctively French, and the collection quietly nods to the existentionalist-writer style. Albert Camus, for instance.