Men’s – That Guy. Stella McCartney SS17

November 11, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I can’t remind myself the last time I have written anything about Stella McCartney on my blog – her women’s fashion doesn’t appeal to me that much lately – but her first menswear collection is just too good.

Men’s fashion at Stella McCartney? That’s quite unexpected, honestly. The look-book dropped yesterday, just a few days before first spring-summer 2017 clothes hit the stores. Without any fuss, any special announcements. A great surprise for men, who felt close to Stella’s aesthetic, but didn’t find their sizes on the racks. The clothes aren’t presented on typical models, but on a pack of street-casted guys and cool-creatives, which is totally different to McCartney’s main line, where we’ve got hot names and top models in advertising campaigns. If I had to choose from this collection, I’m sure I would catch every single piece – from those chunky knits to over-sized trench coats. These are contemporary essentials, I guess. Pajama look is so me; lovely knitted sweatpants and slouchy cardigan are on my list since right now. Stella, Stella. I’m hopelessly in love with your vision of men.

Men’s – Poetic Artistry. Ann Demeulemeester SS17

June 30, 2016June 30, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I AM RED WITH LOVE was the statement that perfectly captured the mood of Sébastien Meunier‘s spring-summer 2017 offering at Ann Demeulemeester. We’ve seen romantic guys at Haider Ackermann and Pigalle earlier in Paris, and Demeulemeester man is also utterly into poetic love. “Rebel in love,” the designer mused backstage. “Love is a colorful emotion for me. And we can say also I am black with love. But we blush and we become a bit red when we are in love, so there is all of that. I wanted to give something that was a bit shy—emotion, charming emotion.” Meunier feels like at home after a few seasons spent at Demeulemeester, and he uses Ann’s signatures with grace – light, satin shirts covered with layers of feather pendants and charms, military jackets in black, and sheer tank-tops with stitched, red-thread slogans. The chunky knits looked impressive, too, oozing with hearty-arty slouchiness.

Men’s – Wedding Guy. Pigalle SS17

June 29, 2016June 29, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

We’ve seen nearly everything during the three weeks of men’s fashion this month. But if talking of a venue, Pigalle nailed it to the fullest in Paris. Wedding theme is nothing new in fashion, considering bride dresses and all-white haute couture gowns – but a fashion show, presented as a casual wedding? That’s quite uncommon. Stephane Ashpool set his spring-summer 2017 show at the Musée de Montmartre in the 18th arrondissement of Paris, precisely in its beautiful, old-fashioned garden. Live band music, guests drinking champagne, a dose of Parisian fashion – a wedding you would rather want to come to, without a pretentious ‘nay’. “The first time I got dressed elegantly was for the wedding of my parents when I was seven years old,” wrote Ashpool in the show notes. “I was very touched by the party, the champagne, the outfits, the mood… I had been looking forward to enjoying it as well! In love with an angel, tonight is a celebration of what we all appreciate the most in this world: free love.”

Pigalle’s signatures were present this season, like basketball clothing-infused tailoring, however all in pastel pink, light lilac, and of course, white. Don’t think that a Pigalle guy will wear trainers for a wedding – instead, he might choose pool sliders and Nike trainers, styled with matchy socks. At the end of the show, with models strolling around the garden in their quilted bombers and satin shirts, Pigalle and his girlfriend appeared. They kissed each other, and they stole the spotlight instantly. LOVE.

“This feeling I do my best to feed all the time motivated me to create a collection around the theme of a wedding. More comfortable in the creation and technically, this eleventh collection is an interpretation of how I see my witnesses. I hope to be able to give you a hug after the show, and wish you all a good time.”

Men’s – New Take on Crafts. Dries Van Noten SS17

June 28, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Every editor is still highly impressed with Dries Van Noten‘s last season, staged in Palais Garnier opera house. Filled with these jaw-dropping, embellished coats. It’s a rare thing in fashion industry, when a show has such a long-lasting impact and still makes a ‘WOW’ afterwards. I guess that was the top collection of men’s autumn-winter 2016. But, can anybody keep up with such success for longer? Let’s ask each other an honest question – is it possible, to make two, consecutive collections, both just as good as the first one? I really, really doubt. There’s always this “gap” collection, where the genius seems to reflect and save creative energy for the next season.

Spring-summer 2017 wasn’t a ground-breaking moment for Dries’ career, and I’m pretty sure he agrees with that. But this doesn’t mean the collection was bad – oh, no. It surely scored a place on the podium of season’s best, with his “new take on arts and crafts“. While designing the collection, Van Noten wanted to take a rest from embroideries and his old, good colour palettes, searching for inspiration in fabric art and textile artists who were present in the 60s and 70s. The effect? A wide variety of texture and textiles, visible in amazingly great pieces. Silk print coats and jackets were patched together from Enlightment-era botanicals, while arty sweaters looked raw and dilapidated thanks to lovely, yarn finishings. The camouflage print in khaki appeared multiple times, contrasting with peacefully light trench coats and pants. The designer didn’t rest on his laurels, that’s for sure. And the anticipation for the next collection, coming in six month, is already reaching the peak point.

Men’s – Gentler. Rick Owens SS17

June 27, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

The world becomes dramatically devastated due to climate changes, but Rick Owens stands in defence, letting his men out this season. “I’m thinking about that a lot, thinking about the challenges that the world is facing, and how people deal with changes,” he shared backstage. “You can put up a defensive facade – which is great, and I’ve done that, we all do that, and that can be totally fine. But this season, I thought I wanted to do something more gentle.” Comparing to autumn-winter 2016 season, which was all about heavy layers, Rick’s spring collection is all about revealing the inner side. It’s definitely gentler in form, with oversized trousers and draped tops. The models look like soldiers, but not entirely fighting types – rather like the peace-keepers, in their fluidic robes and body-adapting silhouettes. Empowering pieces for a tough world we live in.