Men’s – Globe Trotter. Haider Ackermann SS16

June 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Haider Ackermann is a globetrotter since being a small child – he was born in Columbia, spent his childhood in Ethiopia and Algeria and later in the Netherlands. But he still loves long, exotic journeys. His recent collection for SS16 is a fusion of Persian and Japanese culture, with which he has been inspired lately. But don’t think he went kimonos. The new silhouettes for men, and partially for women, were all about sharp cuts and beautiful shades of blue, gold and grey. The collection was rich in details and had this “I need everything” reaction . But the thing I enjoy the most about this oriental summer was the styling – different textures and not so banal textiles were mixed in a very stylish, Haider way. As always, a favourite of mine!

Rose Marie Meyer, the newcomer beauty.

The amazing Yassine Rahal and the Cuban boots. Also a newcomer!

Men’s – The Boys. No21 SS16

June 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“I took a big risk, breaking the mold I have created myself,” Alessandro Dell’Acqua of No21 said. “It was time, I think. Freedom was high on my agenda. I’d like to convey a clear message of fashion as an amusing expression of personality. We can do that in Milano, too.” Indeed, the new collection for men was totally different than all the others up to date. Totally new silhouettes – shorts which reminded skirts; over-sized knitwears (which, basically, land on my wish-list); great varsity jackets and elegant peacoats. The textures here became more tactile and softer. And the ultra-long t-shirts and tank-tops gave us a chilled out vibe, just like the boots, which had their laces tied in a messy way.

In reality, every piece of this collection is totally wearable – I already see a lot of outfits that would personally match my wardrobe. Also, through this collection, Alessanro proved again, that he is a styling genius. You can simply take notes for your next summer look, guys!

Men’s – Black. Thom Browne AW15

January 28, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thom Browne ended the menswear fashion week in Paris with a beautiful, dark touch. And, it was definitely one of the strongest TB collections ever. Even if all others are masterpieces. But what I love about this one, is the romantic side of colour black. The models wore massively decorated hats by Stephen Jones millinery and the signature suits with a white shirt and tie. However it didn’t look simple. The blazers had embroidered whales and turtles; each leather glove had an embellished label tag on it; the fur coats looked magical combined with the brogues and the doctor bag. Everything clothed under a layer of black silk. Simply saying, an example of couture for men. A darkly theatrical opening (a man rising from a bed, dressing in black, and then apparently shuffling off this mortal coil) set the stage for a parade of mourners to make their way down a white runway, dusted with black snow. Bravo.

Men’s – The Tourist. Loewe AW15

January 27, 2015August 21, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“I want people to come here and like something – if you like one thing that’s great,” said Jonathan Anderson. “Nothing has to make sense together. I want people to just hone in on specific pieces. You have to let people have the freedom to do what they want.” This is why he doesn’t see this men’s collection for Loewe as a show presentation, but rather a place where people can come and see, feel and touch – like the Paris showroom. The Spanish heritage label, Loewe, went great revolution under Anderson’s androgynous wings. But for Loewe, opposite to his own namesake label, he thinks in a bit different way. “I’m obsessed with this idea of doing something and letting it go,” he explained. “You don’t own it anymore. It doesn’t matter anyway, as fashion eats into itself. When you inherit an archive, you start to realise that.” The collection itself, having that dramatic modern, felt not modern, but nostalgic. Those pants, jackets from 40’s… and these heroic wool ponchos and lambskin totes. I can’t really see anything in my personal taste, but the total outcome & concept feels enjoyably fresh and different.

Men’s – Weary Warriors. Yohji Yamamoto AW15

January 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Violent Darkness. The make-up faux scars on the faces. The winter guys from Yohji Yamamoto are not the ones you want to mess up with. That was a very classical collection courtesy of Yamamoto – “black says it all: don’t bother me, I don’t bother you” is the most famous quote and motto the designer cultivates each year. Black blazers, black pants, black shirts. Poetic, mysterious. And aggressive thanks to the imprint of fighting on model’s faces. Except the darkness, Yohji showed gleaming velvet suits with marble prints to make all more philosophical.