Men’s – Irony of a Man. Yohji Yamamoto AW16

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Yohji Yamamoto staged an elusive, but powerful collection for the autumn-winter 2016 season. The Japanese designer, who is known for his intellectual, yet sometimes difficult to understand garments, presented a collection which defines today’s masculinity. It might be an old-school, macho guy wearing a tank-top to show off his triceps; there is also the family man, who enjoys comfortable, soft knits. And let’s not forget about the boy who looks good in a man-skirt, which is basically a pocketed sheath covering a pair of woolen combats. Moreover, this meaningful collection was focused on the ironic, hand-stitched signs: “Corporate Motherfuckers” read the slogan on the back of a bumpy, cotton shirt. Then, “The only woman I know is my mother”, and “Help me I’m too hot”. Was this the next, Paris fashion week protest towards the global matters? After a wave of press’ questions, Yohji laughed, saying “It’s a kind of joke”. Whatever all of that means, this collection, based its beauty in its chaos, and in the abstract world of Yamamoto.

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