Avant Premiére. Maison Margiela Resort’16

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So here it is. The first Maison Margiela Resort collection by John Galliano. Although I expected something more avant-garde, the collection titled avan-premiére is rather all about simplicity. But by using the word “simplicity”, I mean a Margiela simplicity. Trench coats with over-sized buckle belts, trompe l’oeil tops with delicate embroideries and a man in a dress is all about  Martin Margiela spirit. But is it Galliano at all? John was always famous for his eccentric, extravagant fashion – and this collection is definitely not considered as extraordinary, but rather as… slightly edgy? Very commercial? I am a bit disappointed, that the pretty new creative director of this “surprising” brand makes it basic. I hope to see something better than this in the upcoming menswear show!

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Men’s – The Tourist. Loewe AW15

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I want people to come here and like something – if you like one thing that’s great,” said Jonathan Anderson. “Nothing has to make sense together. I want people to just hone in on specific pieces. You have to let people have the freedom to do what they want.” This is why he doesn’t see this men’s collection for Loewe as a show presentation, but rather a place where people can come and see, feel and touch – like the Paris showroom. The Spanish heritage label, Loewe, went great revolution under Anderson’s androgynous wings. But for Loewe, opposite to his own namesake label, he thinks in a bit different way. “I’m obsessed with this idea of doing something and letting it go,” he explained. “You don’t own it anymore. It doesn’t matter anyway, as fashion eats into itself. When you inherit an archive, you start to realise that.” The collection itself, having that dramatic modern, felt not modern, but nostalgic. Those pants, jackets from 40’s… and these heroic wool ponchos and lambskin totes. I can’t really see anything in my personal taste, but the total outcome & concept feels enjoyably fresh and different.

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Men’s – Haunted Race. Givenchy AW15

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Riccardo Tisci pleases me from time to time – and this collection is good. It’s spooky, artistic, haunted, mysterious… the models had their faces painted in abstract ways and all of them looked superb on that red glitter runway. The boys wore strongly embroidered varsity jackets while girls… couture. Yep. Riccardo Tisci brings haute couture back to Givenchy. And that’s just great in my opinion. Thankfully, Riccardo goes away from the commercial side, and thinks beauty and craftsmenship again!

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Men’s – Art Student. Maison Margiela AW15

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Still not under John Galliano’s wings because of some top secret reasons, the new Maison Margiela collection for men is… well, very Margiela. When the Maison Margiela studio doesn’t know how to shock or provoke, they just splash paint everywhere they feel like, and make it all look so whatever. Painted jackets, hands, pants – I mean, that’s every art student’s daily wardrobe. The boogie nights knits with these melange psychedelic prints are artsy too. But, common Margiela – I can’t wait to see Galliano’s first ready-to-wear comeback!

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