Men’s – Badass. Haider Ackermann AW15

January 23, 2015January 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I usually don’t use the word “badass”, but this time is an exception. Haider Ackermann seriously made his dark presentation not give a damn. Dandy-ish, decadent. “The idea was to be able to smell the clothes”. The models where staged on a platform in Musee Galliera, wearing slim trousers, military coats, velvet blazers, accompanied with two girls (Mica Arganaraz, I see you!). I enjoyed most the richness of fabrics, colours. It’s so typical for Haider. Also, this rock’n’roll attitude made all that gentlemen-ish mood feel lighter and more chaotic!

Men’s – Steady. Lemaire AW15

January 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christophe Lemaire changed the name of his own, eponymous label, into LEMAIRE. What does it mean? He wants it to be even more descreet and less personalized. “We thought it was time to clarify and reboot, to give it a family name which reflects that we are very much a design duo,” he said. Sarah Tran, his partner, added: “It’s also to say that what we do is about teamwork—people working for a name, yes, but a less personified one than before.” In his AW15 collection, the men, as usually, looked steady and ready for daily life. Comfortable parkas, loosely tailored trousers and over-sized capes were mixed with a slight body exposure. Mostly, the models didn’t wear shirts under their casual blazers. “It is always about the idea of showing a man who is steady,” he said. Fall 2015’s articulation of that Mr. Reliable was based on Alexandre, the amorous protagonist played by Jean-Pierre Léaud in La Maman et la Putain.

Men’s – Androginity. Gucci AW15

January 21, 2015January 20, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Gucci is under big change. Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s head accessories designer, is now the creative director (which is still under question mark…). After a quick departure of Frida Gianini from the house, the new designing team had to change everything – the setting, the bags, shoes and… Gucci. I mean, Gucci’s image which was created by Frida for 8 years. And the effect is very edgy… androgynous models, gender-mixing pants, satin shirts, flannel shirts with pussy bows (for men) and lace tops are just few of the most shocking and outstanding pieces of the whole collection. Even the classical jet-set loafers were filled with fur! Nobody’s sure how the collection is going to be welcomed in the stores, but… I am still under the state of bewilderment.

Men’s – New Menswear. J.W. Anderson AW15

January 12, 2015January 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thankfully, during men’s London fashion weeks, we’ve got J.W. Anderson, who makes the young breed of designers interesting. Showing his collection on the second day of the fashion week, Jonathan Anderson presented his new ideas on a purple carpet made from used tires which looks pretty much amazing. As we all know from the past, women’s pre-fall and men’s fall are connected – the colour palette, the textiles and the main themes are very close. Sudden odd details abounded, like oversize collars and sleeves and buttons fabricated from metalwork (these make me constantly confused). But his provocateur attitude was tempered by immediately desirable clothes like the two-tone turtlenecks, degrade effect car coats and gorgeous, long scarves. “I like this idea of something that felt a little apocalyptic, or looking like it came from a computer game,” explained Anderson backstage of the show’s backstage. As for the clothes, they were a “mishmash of decades – I like isolating the idea of the look.” So the fabric on a coat could be from the 60s but the detailing on it from the 70s. “We were reflecting on different tribal movements and hybridising them. Is it an 80s jacket or not? Does that even matter? It’s about rejecting nostalgia.”

Jan-Jan Van Essche

December 26, 2014January 6, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Born and raised in Antwerp, Jan-Jan Van Essche menswear brand blends ethnic tradition with western characteristics- knitted ponchos, wool hats and loose attitude. Together with his partner Piëtro Celestina, whom Jan-Jan met during his fashion studies at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, he runs Atelier Solarshop just a few blocks away from their loft where they live and work.The former solarshop carries Jan-Jan’s pieces and vintage treasures that reflect his style and mood. In Jan-Jan’s latest collection, entitled INITE, he shows his signatures- lazy blazers, pants and non-chalantly worn scarves. Also, we’ve got a quiet, peaceful colour palette perfect for every season. But what strikes you first in his new look-book, are the gold-polished socks which give the all of the outfits a edgy touch. This Antwerp-based guy keeps it close to his own, personal aesthetic and I love it (by the way, his models seem to be perfect for the overall atmosphere of the collection). More on ateliersolarshop.be and janjanvanessche.com