February 28, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Even though Marine Serre is relatively fresh on the fashion scene, it seems she’s been her for ever. Manic Soul Machine is how the designer intriguingly titled her first runway collection – and noting the cross-cultural, cross-everything approach we’ve learned from her spring-summer 2018 presentation – it was certain Marine wouldn’t disappoint. While demanding fashion seems to be a deficit today, Serre wants you to reflect on everything, from politics and spirituality to sex and society. Her already-signature crescent moon print appeared on nearly everything (athletic bodysuits, shoes, headbands), but the designer’s ‘Futurewear’ as well involves plastic raincoats and motocross jackets. But what really surprises here is the ‘scarf’ theme (see the dresses and skirts) that contrasts with the quite heavy, utilitarian direction of the collection. Still, there are so many other garments to love and appreciate this season. And, the bags, that I firstly thought were lanterns, but then realised were haute gym bags covered in printed fabric.

There’s something elusive about Marine Serre’s fashion – it’s hard to explain in one word. It’s ‘love’, ’emotions’, ‘future’, ‘intelligence’ – words that rarely can be used to describe clothes. However, they fit Marinne’s work perfectly.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Cornerstones. Marine Serre SS18

October 28, 2017November 8, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’s magical aura surrounding Marine Serre‘s work. Maybe it’s because of the feeling of prejudice-free love that is translated so well in the Paris-based designer’s fashion? In case you don’t know: Serre was awarded the 2017 LVMH Prize, having only one collection under her belt. ‘Radical Call for Love‘ – her first collection – was a visual comment on “urgency and contemporaneity by the tragic events in Paris and Brussels in 2015 and 2016.” Marine’s message was presented in a metaphorical way: Islamic symbols were transformed into logo-like branding and faux-Nike headbands (“it’s political and it’s not political. It’s much more than a crescent moon; it also represents how we all felt”), while carpet-like prints clashed with Byzantine florals. ‘Cornerstones’ is the continuation of the first season, and the 25-year-old designer looks forward to a more practical, not basic, offering. “What’s important for me is to be able to connect to contemporary daily life,” says Serre, “that you need to drive, to run.” That’s why, other than athletic stretch bodies in moon motif, there are denim jackets and go-to leggings. The gowns, that can hardly be classified as dusty ‘cocktail’, looked easy thanks to innovative, pouf-y effect construction. It’s rare to see clothes that really do aim to be ready-to-wear, and simultaneously stand for something.