No fashion show this time, but a peaceful, tranquil showroom presentation accompanied with a look-book starring Saskia De Brauw. That’s how Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen reply to New York’s fashion week fuss. Oh, the clothes. The Row is heavenly. Majestic. Angelic. But don’t think of any opulent embroideries or ornamental details, no. Rather, a voluminous dove-gray silk dress. Tweedy coat with the frayed edges. Robe-like gowns with regally upturned collars. All hand-made, kept in the highest possible quality of craftsmanship. Those garments don’t look still and statuesque, but flowing. I’m absolutely in love with this one look where a huge bag works as layer of clothing worn over a minimal, sleeveless dress. Editors tend to say that clients who adored Phoebe Philo’s Céline should go to The Row. Well, I wouldn’t go that path of logic. The Olsen twins gradually create their own vocabulary, that is less and less Philo-esque. They finally create distinct clothing that speaks for itself; it says ‘The Row’, not ‘Philo appreciation sample’. Also, a big shoutout to The Row’s new menswear line that launches in October. Mostly with a Made in Japan tag, the men’s garments (just a few preview images were released) will be as exquisite as the women’s. The price range, that starts from $4,000, speaks for itself as well.
Collages by Edward Kanarecki.
Who would have ever, ever thought that Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen will come so far to become the Jil Sander, Helmut Lang and Margiela-at-Hermes of today? Since Phoebe Philo is no longer at Céline, it can be safely said that The Row automatically becomes the official successor label for minimalism (and pure luxury) lovers. I’m writing that ecstatically: the autumn-winter 2018 is undoubtedly the best collection the twins have delivered up to date. Just look at the refined outerwear and khaki raincoats; the delightful, ecru gown with a highlighted waist; masculine blazers – actually, to die for – and knits made of the best possible cashmere (to be worn over and over for ages). Oh, and I nearly forgot to mention, that a selection of rare Isamu Noguchi sculptures were there during the runway show, standing and observing the serene walk of such women as Karen Elson, Ajak Deng or Yasmin Warsame. Although New York fashion week is still on, I think the Olsen’s have. Ultimately. Won. My. Heart.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen‘s The Row lead the coat game for autumn-winter 2017. Their newest collection was virtually all about coats, whether we’re speaking of a timeless mac or a floor-sweeping ensemble. We’ve already got used to The Row’s remarkable cashmere and over-sized knits, which rather associated with the term “cozy”. Or flowing silk dresses for summer. But this season felt austere. That was pure minimalism, with no place for romance (heavy Dr. Martens prove that). The level of minimalism which was presented by the Olsen sisters matched Helmut Lang’s and Calvin Klein’s shows in the 90s – and that’s an achievement.
You need to be a great observer to notice those tiny, yet meaningful words embroidered on the shirt’s sleeves. ‘Hope’, ‘dignity’, ‘freedom’ – I doubt this word pool needs much of explanation, noting current political situation in USA. The Row women (like Jamie Bochert, Kristen Owen, Angela Lindvall) marched around the concrete show venue like soldiers, or even, modern-day angels.