In London, it’s the season of anniversaries. It’s not only Victoria Beckham who celebrates her 10 years of business, but as well Mary Katrantzou, the Greek designer who exactly in 2008 stormed the industry with her kaleidoscopic, bold prints. One would expect to see a remix of her greatest hits, but Katrantzou pushed the envelope and didn’t go the ‘easy’ way. For this delightful collection (which I consider her best in a while), Mary took favourite prints she used throughout her career, and re-made them in the most couture way. Postcard stamps, butterflies, perfume bottles, jewellery, flowers and many other trademarks of her visual language were transformed into meticulous embroideries and embellishments that covered long-sleeved mini-dresses, tulle ball-gowns, romantic capes and elegant flares. Once you see the details, you will be instantly in awe with all that stunning, mind-blowing beauty. Maximalism has always been Katrantzou’s best friend, but this season it seems to be a grand love affair. In the end of the show, after the “collection of collections” was presented, the curtain in the middle of the venue went up and an army of mannequins appeared. The guests could revisit Mary’s most major moments, from her gorgeous MA collection to that memorable type-writer dress in red from 2012. Well, what else is left to say. Wishing the designer next, and next, and next decades of success in fashion!
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
It’s the first good collection Mary Katrantzou presented for a loooong time. And the Greek designers proves, that plastic is fantastic, if you know how to use it. This might surprise you, but this entire collection has been made out of plastic. PLASTIC. Well, of course she used a bit of wool and silk there and there, but… the spongy clutches, details and pink runway are giving us a note, that the sponges that we use in our kitchens are trendy. Coming back to Mary – the designer totally leaves digital prints behind, which were her signature, and gives us feminine, flawless silhouettes. The bold colours, comfortable volumes and affordable-looking skirts plan to be best-selling this season. Personally, I like this new face of Mary Katrantzou.
Mary Katrantzou went dinosaurs! But specifically, into the paleozoic era, where the ocean life was forming, creating strange, terrific creatures. And these creatures did inspire Mary for summer. With magnificent embroideries, beautiful fabrics and embellishments, Katrantzou has already proved herself fearless: no ocean too deep, no mountain too high to provide grist for her creative mill. And it was stronger for the fact that she contextualized her technical features with innovative, even strict silhouettes: slipdresses, shirtdresses, shifts and shell tops. Isn’t it all slightly out of reality? All those spooky fish and lizards made me really remind my childhood full of dinosaurs and monsters!
There are these awkward fashion moments, when ugly and kitsch things come back with a huge boom. Like for example the printed, colourful, so-70’s suits. Covered with flowers, veggies, twirls and other super optimistic patterns, the nightmare of kitsch appears more than once for Resort 2015. The kaleidoscope of loud, proud, floral and psychedelic print pantsuits by Miu Miu, Marni, Louis Vuitton and Mary Katrantzou will try to encourage us, to wear these the next spring. For now, I feel a bit scared. But we must be all brave.